December 5, 2025 The Premier Turkey Single Shot: The Gamelander Brand new for 2026 and officially launching at the SHOT Show is the RETAY Gamelander. This is the new standard for single shot shotguns. The Gamelander is a single shot shotgun available in 20ga and .410. Like every RETAY shotgun, it features a Deep Bore™ Drilled Barrel and Factory Lengthened Forcing Cone™, this combination puts over 20% more pellets in the kill zone and gives you over 67% better shot-to-shot consistency. With a smooth trigger pull, clean crisp break action, adjustable cheek piece, and our AIRY recoil pad, the Gamelander is in a class of its own. Offered in black matte and Mossy Oak Bottomlands, it’s got the classic and simple look turkey hunters love. It comes with removable choke tubes including a cylinder, modified, .565 extra full extended turkey-lander choke tube and a .385 extra full extended turkey-lander choke tube. Featuring a brass bead and it is drilled and tapped for your favorite scope or red dot of your choosing. It also has a low profile rail that is ready to mount anything you’d like. It features a length of pull of 14.37” and weighs only 6.7lbs! It is perfect for running and gunning or long hikes to your favorite turkey holler. If you’ve been in the market or curious about a single shot turkey gun that is light weight and deadly, wait no longer. This is the PREMIER turkey single shot. Head over to retayusa.com/locate-dealer/ to find a dealer near you, and get your hands on the Gamelander this spring!
December 5, 2025 Quack the Halls! A Christmas Duck Alright, my festive foodies, gather ’round, because this year, we’re not just having a Christmas dinner, we’re having a Christmas duck. Not just any duck, mind you, but a glorious, majestic, possibly slightly bewildered smoked duck with an orange sauce that will make your taste buds sing carols. Now, I know what you’re thinking. “Duck? For Christmas? Isn’t that a bit… fancy and a lot of work?” And to that, I say, “Yes!” Because while a perfectly roasted duck can seem daunting, this smoked version is surprisingly chill. You’ll be casually carving slices of smoky, succulent duck, radiating effortless of your culinary genius. So, ditch the turkey trauma this year, and let’s get quacking! Smoked Duck with Zesty Orange Sauce: What you’ll need: ● The Duck: ○ 1 whole duck (4-5 lbs), preferably defrosted and patted very, very dry ○ 2 tbsp kosher salt ○ 1 tbsp black pepper ○ 1 tsp garlic powder ○ 1 tsp onion powder ○ Wood chips for smoking (apple or cherry work beautifully) ● The Orange Sauce: ○ 1 cup fresh orange juice (about 2-3 oranges) ○ 1/4 cup Grand Marnier or Cointreau (optional, but highly recommended for holiday cheer) ○ 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar ○ 2 tbsp brown sugar ○ 1 tbsp soy sauce ○ 1 clove garlic, minced ○ 1 tsp grated fresh ginger ○ 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes (adjust to your spice preference) ○ 1 tbsp cornstarch mixed with 2 tbsp cold water (for thickening) ○ Fresh orange zest, for garnish Your Pre-Smoking Pep Talk: Pat that duck DRY. The drier it is, the crispier the skin will get. We want crispy, not rubbery, friends. Let’s Get Smoking! 1. Prep the Duck: Score the duck skin in a crosshatch pattern, being careful not to cut into the meat. This helps render the fat and get that skin extra crispy. Mix together the salt, pepper, garlic powder, and onion powder. Rub this spice blend all over the duck, inside and out. If you have time, let it sit in the fridge uncovered for a few hours (or even overnight) to really let the skin dry out. 2. Smoker Time: Preheat your smoker to 275°F (135°C). Add your wood chips according to your smoker’s instructions. 3. Smoke ‘Em If You Got ‘Em: Place the duck directly on the smoker grates, breast side up. Insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh, avoiding the bone. 4. The Waiting Game: Smoke the duck until the internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C). This will likely take about 3-4 hours, depending on your duck’s size and your smoker. You’ll want to drain any rendered fat from the drip pan periodically. 5. Crispy Skin Bonus Round (Optional but HIGHLY Recommended): If your duck skin isn’t as crispy as you’d like (sometimes smoking doesn’t get it super crispy), you can pop it into a preheated 400°F (200°C) oven for 10-15 minutes, or until the skin is beautifully golden and crackly. Watch it closely! 6. Rest. Your. Bird: Once cooked, remove the duck from the smoker (or oven) and tent it loosely with foil. Let it rest for at least 15-20 minutes before carving. This is crucial for juicy meat! While the Duck’s Chillin’, Make That Sauce! 1. Saucepan: In a medium saucepan, combine the orange juice, Grand Marnier (if using), apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, soy sauce, minced garlic, grated ginger, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. 2. Thickening Time: Once simmering, whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens to your desired consistency. It should coat the back of a spoon. 3. Taste and Adjust: Taste the sauce and adjust seasonings as needed. More sweetness? Add a pinch more brown sugar. More tang? A splash of more vinegar. Carve and Conquer! Carve your beautifully smoked duck into portions. Drizzle generously with that vibrant orange sauce. Garnish with fresh orange zest for an extra festive flourish. The Grand Finale: There you have it, folks! A Christmas dinner that’s impressive, delicious, and won’t involve a frantic call to the fire department. Happy Holidays!
December 5, 2025 The Unspoken Rules of the Welfare Woods Written by Hunter Helms When people hear the mention of flooded timber duck hunting in Arkansas they think of the epitome of waterfowl hunting. They can imagine the sound of whistling wings of mallards cruising the tree tops at first light while they search for a place to get down into the flooded timber to loaf and begin the pair bonding process. They can envision a group of mallards making their last swing and setting up to start their descent by breaking the trees while their wings are hitting limbs as they back peddle into a hole in the historic bottoms that was most likely cut by the pioneers of flooded timber hunting many generations ago. There is not another form of waterfowl hunting that is surrounded by more nostalgia and history than the pursuit of the mallard in the flooded hardwood timber of Arkansas. Along with this pursuit comes a list of unsaid but understood rules in the community of public flooded timber hunters. Many of these rules were instilled and taught to us while we tagged along with our fathers and grandfathers during our younger years. However there are many younger and even some older generations wanting to experience this nostalgic form of hunting that were not taught these understood rules of the welfare woods. These people may include in staters and out of staters both and are just wanting to experience what they have always heard and dreamt about. Going forward I want to discuss and educate people on what these understood rules are and why they are needed to be known. There is a non-profit organization called “The Public Timber Project” run by a good friend by the name of Ich Stewart. He is accompanied by other gentlemen that are already friends and some that I hope to soon call a friend and we all have the same mission in common. That mission is to educate and instill these rules to already established timber hunters as well as the new generations coming into it. Along with that mission we hope to gain traction with everyone to respect these public woods that we are blessed to be able to share and to leave them better than we found them. I teamed up with this organization as well as other guys and created what we like to call the “10 Commandments of Arkansas Public Duck Hunting”. They are as followed: 1. Respect One Another: We are all part of the same team in duck hunting. Act like it. 2. Communicate with each Other: Before setting up, talk to the hunters who are already in the area to understand their plan and avoid interfering with their hunt. Communicate with the hunters at the boat ramp. Find ways to work together. 3. Adhere to the 4 AM Rule: Do not leave the designated start lines before 4 AM, and do not or leave the boat ramp and run your hole right before peak hunting time. Doing so disturbs morning flights and can wreck other hunter’s chances of successfully finishing birds. 4. Practice Boat Courtesy: Drive your boat respectfully through the woods/marsh. Avoid excessive speed or running your boat full throttle when off the main river channels and main travel corridors. Slow down when in the cuts and in the woods so as not to disturb ducks and ruin the hunts of others. 5. Follow All Rules and Regulations: Abide by all federal, state, and local hunting laws and regulations. Outlaw duck culture does not help the future of our sport, it’s killing it. 6. Avoid “Sky Busting” and “Swing Ducks”: Never take extremely long-range shots (“sky busting”) or shoot at ducks that are actively working to finish their approach toward another hunter’s setup (“swing ducks”). Let the ducks work and finish their approach. Celebrate it when adjacent hunters are successful at finishing birds, don’t wreck it for them. 7. Keep Boat Ramps Clear: Ensure boat ramps are kept accessible and free of obstruction for all users. 8. Keep the Woods and Boat Ramps Clean: Pack out all trash and leave the hunting area cleaner than you found it. Take pride in keeping our boat ramps clean. Pack it in, pack it out. 9. Respect the Wildlife: Honor the game we chase by showing them respect. Conservation is the goal, not followers on Social Media. 10. Make Game Recovery a Goal: Recovering wounded and crippled birds should be a priority while hunting. Make it a goal to improve your recovery of downed birds. Make it a goal to reduce cripples. Remember that finishing birds decreases cripples and increases your chances of successfully recovering birds. Game recovery is the foundation of conservation. These 10 things that are mentioned above were not created to scorn or slap the wrists of people that have not followed them in the past but created to hopefully educate current and future hunters. This list of unsaid rules should be used as a resource to educate yourself and other hunters in hopes that we all fall in line with this mentality and create an environment in the welfare woods where we all can get along and have successful hunts. The culture of duck hunting has taken a turn for the worse over the past 10 years or so and has created divisions between us all. These divisions may include what brand waders or camo you wear, what brand shotgun or shells you shoot, what boat and motor you drive and how many ducks you kill. In reality none of that matters in the slightest bit and we as hunters have lost sight of the true meaning of waterfowl hunting. Getting to be out in God’s creation with some of your best friends and enjoying the sights and sounds in the flooded timber while the sun rises and if you are blessed with a successful hunt then it’s just a bonus added to the day. I truly believe that if we all have the same mentality and not only preach but practice this set of rules or guidelines we all would have more successful hunts. As waterfowl hunters we are a community that is losing numbers due to a lot of our behaviors towards other members of the community and that’s the last thing that needs to happen. We are all “on the same team” and need to learn to respect and get along with each other and leave the woods better than we found them if we want our kids and grandkids to enjoy what we are blessed to be able to do. This season get out there and enjoy yourself and create memories with your good buddies. Preach but also practice these “10 Commandments of Arkansas Public Duck Hunting” and try to be a part of the cultural change and help leave these woods better than we found. While you’re doing that though, never forget to “Enjoy the Journey” like my good buddy Billy Campbell always says
December 5, 2025 White Gold: Finding and Hunting Pheasants in the Snow The opening weeks of pheasant season are often characterized by mild weather and abundant cover. But for those dedicated upland hunters who brave the elements, the late season can offer some of the most rewarding and strategic hunting of the year. The winter pheasant is a different bird entirely. Its survival instincts are heightened, and the stark, snowy landscape has forced it to consolidate, offering a unique opportunity for those willing to bundle up. Understanding the Winter Pheasant’s Mindset When the snow flies and the temperatures plummet, a pheasant’s priority shifts entirely to survival. They need to conserve energy, find reliable food, and stay protected from predators and the elements. This key behavioral change is the hunter’s biggest advantage. Thermal Cover is King: Birds will abandon the lighter, scattered cover of fall and concentrate in the thickest, densest habitat available. This is crucial for staying warm and sheltered from wind and snow. Holding Tight: To conserve precious energy, pheasants are much more reluctant to move or flush wildly. They will often hold incredibly tight, burrowing deep into cover until you (or your dog) are practically on top of them. This is the “late flush” that winter hunters live for. Food and Shelter Connection: Pheasants need to minimize travel distance to reduce energy expenditure and predator exposure. Therefore, they will be found in heavy cover that is adjacent to a reliable food source, primarily waste grain in agricultural fields (like corn or soybeans). The Late-Season Hotspots: Where to Look Cattail sloughs and wetlands are GOLD. When everything else is buried, standing cattails offer some of the best thermal protection. They are wind-resistant and often create tunnels and warrens where birds can hide deep and warm. Focus on the edges and any drier, less-iced-over areas. Shelterbelts and thick tree lines, especially older ones with low-hanging branches that block wind and create a snow-free zone at ground level, are prime real estate. Check brushy draws and timbered creeks. Dense native grasses (CRP) like switchgrass or indiangrass that stand up well to heavy snow and provide insulating cover. Low spots or depressions in these fields often hold more birds, as they offer extra wind protection. Food Source Edges are prime places as well! Always hunt the cover that is within a quarter-mile of a standing or recently harvested grain field. Look for areas where the wind has blown snow away, exposing waste grain. Tactics for Hunting in the Snow Hunting in the snow is an exercise in patience, thoroughness, and caution. Track Reading (Post-Snowfall): While tracking a single rooster can be futile, fresh snow is a fantastic tool for scouting. A tracery of three-toed prints in the snow near cover is a clear sign the birds are using the area. Slow Down and Zigzag: Because birds are holding so tightly, you must move slowly and deliberately. If hunting without a dog, walk in a zigzag or uneven pattern to ensure you cover every square foot of the dense cover. Manage the Dog Closely: Scenting can be tricky in cold, dry air. Keep your flushing dog at a closer range than usual so it works the cover more thoroughly. For pointing dogs, be ready for a solid, close point that may require a firm kick to the brush to flush the tight-holding bird. Use the Wind (Always): The wind is your best friend. Always approach the cover into the wind. This not only helps your dog pick up the scent but also pushes your human scent and noise away from the birds, preventing an early flush. The Blocking Strategy: Late-season birds are often pressured and know all the “escape routes.” If hunting with a partner, position a blocker at the end of the cover (the “back door”) while the other hunter pushes the cover toward them. Safety First: For You and Your Dog The winter environment is unforgiving. Take extra precautions to ensure a safe and enjoyable hunt. Dress in Layers because hypothermia is a real danger. Wear moisture-wicking base layers, an insulating mid-layer, and a waterproof/windproof outer shell. Your hunting partner needs just as much protection. Watch for signs of cold stress (shivering, lethargy). Consider a protective vest and check their paws frequently for ice balls or cuts from crusted snow. Always feed a high-fat diet during winter and provide warm, non-frozen water. The cold will sneakily dehydrate you. Bring warm beverages and high-energy snacks. Late-season pheasant hunting is a test of will, knowledge, and endurance. The reward? A magnificent rooster flushed against a backdrop of crisp white snow and the satisfaction of knowing you’ve successfully cracked the code of the winter ringneck.
November 6, 2025 Goose Calling Tactics: Adjusting Your Strategy for Pressure and Migration Goose hunting has certainly changed over the years and so have goose calling tactics. Back in the day, your typical flute goose call with a couple honks would persuade any flock to light in your decoys. As time has passed, birds have gotten smarter with the increased hunting pressure. Mastering when and how to goose call has gotten more important than ever. Your call isn’t just a noisemaker; it’s a tool for conversation. However, the message you send needs to change drastically based on your audience. The eager migrating birds flying high overhead require a different approach than the local, wary geese that have heard every honk off of a $15 plastic call. Here’s a breakdown of how to fine-tune your goose calling for two distinct scenarios: hunting pressured birds and working migrating flocks. The Local: Hunting Pressured Birds These are the birds that have seen your decoys, heard your calls, and probably laughed at your hide. They’ve been hunted hard and are often referred to as “resident” or “pressured” geese. Your goal is to be subtle, realistic, and convincing. The “Less Is More” Approach ● Soft, Contentment Calls: When working pressured birds, your calling should be minimal and focused on confidence. Once you have their attention and they are turning, switch to the quiet calls of a flock on the ground that is content and feeding. ○ The Moan: A low, drawn-out sound that conveys contentment and security. It tells wary birds, “Everything is safe here.” ● Soft Clucks and Murmurs: Use gentle, realistic clucks (“hut”) and double-clucks (“hut-hut”) interspersed with low, contented murmurs (a feeding or laydown call, often a deep “da-da-da-da” or “who-who-who” growl into the call). This is a great confidence booster as the birds are making their final approach. ● Volume Control is Key: Avoid loud “hail calls.” Calling too loudly at close range will often “flare” or spook these educated birds. Your call volume should decrease as the birds get closer. ● The Decoy Does the Talking: If your hide is good and your decoys are set realistically, once the birds are locked up and committed, stop calling. Let your setup close the deal. Only call again if they start to “peel off” or show hesitation. ● Observe Body Language: Watch the birds closely. If they glide and turn their heads from side to side, they are interested—tone it down. If they fly fast and high with no response, try a small change, but don’t force it. The Traveler: Working Migrating Birds Migrating geese are often less pressured and flying at higher altitudes. They are focused on getting from point A to point B and need a lot of convincing to break from their path. Your goal is to be loud, aggressive, and noticeable. High-Energy, High-Volume Calling ● The Hail Call: Since they are often flying high, you need to grab their attention from a distance. Use a loud, long, and aggressive honk or a sequence of honks to get them to look your way. You are essentially screaming, “Hey! Land here!” ● Aggressive Clucks and Double-Clucks: Once they respond and begin to work toward your spread, increase the excitement. Double-clucking (fast, sharp “hit-it, hit-it” sounds) and a faster cadence will sound like a large, excited flock welcoming new arrivals. These birds want to hear a lot of noise. ● The Comeback Call: If a high-flying flock turns and starts to leave, hit them with a loud, aggressive comeback call (a rapid, pleading series of honks and clucks). This is often the time to “really get after it” to pull them back into the pattern. ● Use a Flag: Don’t forget the visual component! Flagging (using a goose flag to mimic a landing bird) in conjunction with your loud calls is a very effective one-two punch for distant, migrating flocks. General Tips for Goose Calling Success ● Practice the Fundamentals: No matter the scenario, you must first master the cluck, moan and honk. These three calls, perfected, will kill more geese than any advanced sequence. ● Read the Birds: This is the golden rule. The geese will tell you exactly what they want. If they react well to a certain call or cadence, stick with it! If they ignore you or flare, don’t be afraid to change it up. ● Match Your Setup: Try to match the volume and aggressiveness of your calling to the size of your decoy spread. A small spread calling aggressively may sound unnatural. By understanding the mindset of the birds you are targeting and adjusting your volume, cadence, and call selection, you will significantly increase your success in the goose blind. Goose hunting has certainly changed over the years. Back in the day, your typical flute goose call with a couple honks would persuade any flock to light in your decoys. As time has passed, birds have gotten smarter with the increased hunting pressure. Mastering when and how to goose call has gotten more important than ever. Your call isn’t just a noisemaker; it’s a tool for conversation. However, the message you send needs to change drastically based on your audience. The eager migrating birds flying high overhead require a different approach than the local, wary geese that have heard every honk off of a $15 plastic call. Here’s a breakdown of how to fine-tune your goose calling for two distinct scenarios: hunting pressured birds and working migrating flocks. The Local: Hunting Pressured Birds These are the birds that have seen your decoys, heard your calls, and probably laughed at your hide. They’ve been hunted hard and are often referred to as “resident” or “pressured” geese. Your goal is to be subtle, realistic, and convincing. The “Less Is More” Approach ● Soft, Contentment Calls: When working pressured birds, your calling should be minimal and focused on confidence. Once you have their attention and they are turning, switch to the quiet calls of a flock on the ground that is content and feeding. ○ The Moan: A low, drawn-out sound that conveys contentment and security. It tells wary birds, “Everything is safe here.” ● Soft Clucks and Murmurs: Use gentle, realistic clucks (“hut”) and double-clucks (“hut-hut”) interspersed with low, contented murmurs (a feeding or laydown call, often a deep “da-da-da-da” or “who-who-who” growl into the call). This is a great confidence booster as the birds are making their final approach. ● Volume Control is Key: Avoid loud “hail calls.” Calling too loudly at close range will often “flare” or spook these educated birds. Your call volume should decrease as the birds get closer. ● The Decoy Does the Talking: If your hide is good and your decoys are set realistically, once the birds are locked up and committed, stop calling. Let your setup close the deal. Only call again if they start to “peel off” or show hesitation. ● Observe Body Language: Watch the birds closely. If they glide and turn their heads from side to side, they are interested—tone it down. If they fly fast and high with no response, try a small change, but don’t force it. The Traveler: Working Migrating Birds Migrating geese are often less pressured and flying at higher altitudes. They are focused on getting from point A to point B and need a lot of convincing to break from their path. Your goal is to be loud, aggressive, and noticeable. High-Energy, High-Volume Calling ● The Hail Call: Since they are often flying high, you need to grab their attention from a distance. Use a loud, long, and aggressive honk or a sequence of honks to get them to look your way. You are essentially screaming, “Hey! Land here!” ● Aggressive Clucks and Double-Clucks: Once they respond and begin to work toward your spread, increase the excitement. Double-clucking (fast, sharp “hit-it, hit-it” sounds) and a faster cadence will sound like a large, excited flock welcoming new arrivals. These birds want to hear a lot of noise. ● The Comeback Call: If a high-flying flock turns and starts to leave, hit them with a loud, aggressive comeback call (a rapid, pleading series of honks and clucks). This is often the time to “really get after it” to pull them back into the pattern. ● Use a Flag: Don’t forget the visual component! Flagging (using a goose flag to mimic a landing bird) in conjunction with your loud calls is a very effective one-two punch for distant, migrating flocks. General Tips for Goose Calling Success ● Practice the Fundamentals: No matter the scenario, you must first master the cluck, moan and honk. These three calls, perfected, will kill more geese than any advanced sequence. ● Read the Birds: This is the golden rule. The geese will tell you exactly what they want. If they react well to a certain call or cadence, stick with it! If they ignore you or flare, don’t be afraid to change it up. ● Match Your Setup: Try to match the volume and aggressiveness of your calling to the size of your decoy spread. A small spread calling aggressively may sound unnatural. By understanding the mindset of the birds you are targeting and adjusting your volume, cadence, and call selection, you will significantly increase your success in the goose blind.
November 6, 2025 A-Frame Blinds – Concealment is Key BY PHIL BOURJAILY November 6, 2025 Sometimes the best way to avoid the eyes of waterfowl is to hide in plain sight. That’s the method behind the seeming madness of A-frame blinds stuck out in the middle of the Canadian prairies, as I was reminded again on a recent on a trip to Saskatchewan. The idea is simple, if counterintuitive: build something so big that birds don’t recognize it as a threat. Two A-frames are better than one, and three might be better than two. Second, you hide every square line. If it looks like a box, birds won’t play. Blur every edge so it doesn’t look man-made, and ducks and geese won’t see it as a threat. Third, be sure there’s adequate overhead cover, so birds have difficulty picking out hunters as they pass above the blind. Finally, set decoys to crosswind birds so they aren’t looking directly at you. Before each hunt, the drill was the same: we’d drop the gate and pull the three giant decoy bags out, then we’d walk on the carpet of cedar boughs on the trailer floor to carry the assembled blind out, two of us grasping the frame inside so it came out looking like a huge rectangular bush with four feet. The other blind stood, rolled up, against the front of trailer, along with gold-leaved aspen branches and Saskatoon-berry saplings. With the second blind assembled, we’d clip both together. They were already brushed, but that was just the starting point. We used some of the saplings and boughs to further camouflage the blind, and laid upside-down cedar boughs against the blind to hide the straight lines where it met the stubble. With a drill and auger-bit, we bored holes around the blind, many of them several feet away from it, so we could build out a clump of trees using the remaining saplings, branches and boughs. When it was finished, and we stepped in around the cedars and saplings, it had the feel of entering some kind of fake Christmas forest. If you stepped back, what you saw was a long clump, the trees around it further breaking up the outline and casting natural, brushy shadows on the ground. Inside the blinds, where we sat on comfortable deer-blind chairs, the brush stood tall enough to provide overhead cover. The blinds were set to sharp crowwind angle, and our guide put fullbodies in an open V, with the point facing downwind. The whole setup worked beautifully. The first time our guide, Darren, called the shot, I popped up, and found myself face to face with geese at ten yards. They were more surprised than I was, and every one of them fell before I ever thought to touch the trigger. The best moment of the trip didn’t involve shooting. One afternoon we finished the dark-goose limit we’d started on in the morning, so we could only watch as flock after flock of cacklers worked the decoys and landed in the spread by the hundreds. They had no idea we were there, awed and arising mere yards away, hidden inside our A-frame clump of bushes. Phil Bourjaily is shotgun editor for Field & Stream, shotgun columnist for Ducks Unlimited, and a frequent contributor to Shooting Sportsman, California Waterfowl, Clay Target Nation and others. He lives in eastern Iowa with his wife and a German shorthaired pointer. He has two grown sons and a new grandson.
November 5, 2025 Wild Goose Pastrami If you’re anything like me, you’ve spent years making the same ol few recipes with your goose. Wondering if you’ll over branch out and try something new. But one day, a thought struck me, a culinary revelation whispered on the wind (or maybe it was just a particularly aggressive honk): Why not make pastrami? It was time to give this bird a new, delicious, and deeply ironic purpose. The Quest for the Perfect Breast (of the Goose, That Is) Once the goose is… acquired, you have to breast it out. This is where you realize just how muscular these creatures are. They don’t fly south on a whim; they fly on pure, unadulterated goose-muscle. Trying to slice through it felt like trimming a very angry, feathered cinder block. Pro Tip: Look out for any lingering shot. Biting down on a stray pellet is not the “pop of flavor” you want in your artisanal pastrami. Trust me on this. The Brine: Where the Magic—and the Salt—Happens Pastrami isn’t just smoked goose; it’s cured goose. This means a multi-day spa treatment in a ridiculously salty, spiced brine. I used a recipe that called for enough salt to preserve a small Roman army and enough Instacure to give the meat that signature, beautiful pink hue. (Don’t skip the curing salt, unless you enjoy the color gray and the flavor of ‘meh’). For three long days, the goose breasts sat, submerged in their murky, spiced bath. Waiting for the right time to get sliced and diced. The Smoke: The Final Transformation After a thorough rinse and a generous coating of a cracked pepper and coriander rub, it was time for the smoker. I kept the temperature low, slow, and steady. For hours, the sweet smell of smoke mingled with the savory spices, wafting across the neighborhood. My neighbor, Joe, walked over, sniffing the air like a bird dog following a scent trail. “What’cha smokin’ there?” he asked, his eyes wide with meaty anticipation. I paused, savoring the moment. “Wild goose pastrami.” His face went from eager to bewildered in two-tenths of a second. “You’re… smoking goose?” “Exactly, and you’re going to love it.” The Payoff: A Sandwich Worth Honking About Finally, the moment of truth. Sliced paper-thin against the grain (a challenge that requires a very sharp knife, or preferably, a commercial slicer), the Wild Goose Pastrami was ready. And let me tell you, it was a revelation. It was smoky, spicy, salty, and surprisingly rich. Served high on rye bread with a smear of spicy brown mustard and maybe a sliver of Swiss, it was truly magnificent. It was the sandwich equivalent of a mic drop. No longer is goose just something I turned into the typical jerky. It is a delicacy. It is the taste of sweet, sweet culinary justice. Next time you see me hauling my bag of honkers out of your local corn field, you’ll know exactly what’s on the menu. That’s a fantastic idea! Based on the general principles of making pastrami and recipes specifically for wild goose, here are the standard ingredients and preparation steps. Since this is for a blog post, I’ll keep the tone informative but friendly, noting that exact amounts can vary. The Ingredient List The ingredients are generally split into three groups: the meat, the brine/cure, and the final rub. 1. The Meat ● Canada Goose Breasts: Typically, you’ll need 4–6 full breasts (about 2–3 geese worth). Make sure they are trimmed of all silver skin, fat, and any undesirable bits. 2. The Brine/Cure Ingredients The cure is essential for flavor, color, and food safety. This usually involves a wet brine for a few days. Ingredient Purpose Key Note Water The base of the brine. Enough to fully submerge the breasts.Kosher Salt Kosher Salt Primary curing agent and flavor. Use a non-iodized salt like Kosher or sea salt. Sugar (Brown or White) Balances the salt and helps with color. Often brown sugar for a richer flavor. Pink Curing Salt (Instacure #1/Prague Powder #1) CRITICAL. For safety and that classic pastrami pink color. Do NOT substitute. Use only the exact amount called for in your chosen recipe, as it is toxic in large doses. Pickling Spices For the essential savory, earthy flavor profile. Includes mustard seeds, coriander seeds, peppercorns, bay leaves, cloves, and allspice. Garlic/Onion Adds aromatic depth. Often minced garlic or garlic/onion powder. 3. The Final Rub Ingredients This is the crust that gives pastrami its characteristic flavor and texture. IngredientPurpose Key Note Coarsely Ground Black Pepper The dominant flavor and crust. Grind it coarsely for texture. Coarsely Ground Coriander Seeds The second signature pastrami flavor. Toasting the seeds beforehand enhances the flavor. Garlic Powder To flavor Onion Powder To flavor Paprika (Smoked or Regular) Adds color and smokiness. 🔪 The Preparation List (Step-by-Step) The process requires time, patience, and a smoker! Phase 1: The Cure (3 to 7 Days) 1. Prep the Meat: Trim the goose breasts of all silver skin, fat, and shot damage. Pat them dry. 2. Make the Brine: Bring your water, salts (including the pink curing salt), sugar, and pickling spices to a boil to dissolve everything. It is essential to cool the brine completely (often by adding ice) before adding the meat. 3. Brine: Submerge the goose breasts in the cooled brine. Ensure they are fully covered. 4. Wait: Refrigerate for typically 4 to 7 days. The exact time depends on the size of the breasts and the recipe, but they need enough time to cure all the way through. 5. Rinse and Dry: Remove the breasts from the brine. Rinse them thoroughly under cold running water to remove excess salt and spices. Pat them completely dry with paper towels. Phase 2: The Rub and Rest (8 to 24 Hours) 1. Apply the Rub: Grind the black pepper and coriander seeds (and other rub ingredients) coarsely. Generously coat every surface of the goose breasts with the rub, massaging it in firmly to create a thick crust. 2. Rest/Form a Pellicle: Place the rubbed breasts uncovered on a rack in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight. This allows the cure to fully equalize and forms a slightly tacky surface (a pellicle) which helps the smoke adhere better. Phase 3: The Smoke (2 to 4 Hours) 1. Preheat Smoker: Preheat your smoker to a low temperature, typically between 160°F and 225°F (71°C to 107°C). Use a mild wood like oak, hickory, or cherry. 2. Smoke: Place the breasts in the smoker and smoke until the internal temperature reaches 140°F to 150°F (60°C to 66°C).2 This is a crucial temperature range for safety and texture. For goose breasts, this usually takes 2 to 4 hours, depending on the smoker and breast size.
November 5, 2025 Patterning Your Gun – Don’t Skip This Step! If you’re hunting ducks, pheasants or any type of bird for that matter, and not patterning your shotgun, you’re just guessing. Patterning shows what your gun actually does, not what the box says it should do. Don’t take someone else’s word for it — you gotta see those holes on paper yourself. Once you do, you’ll know your limits, how your gun shoots, and how to make cleaner kills. It’s one of those things that sounds boring until you realize how much better it makes you. Here are a few tips I’ve learned when patterning my guns. Start with a clean barrel and the choke you plan to hunt with. Use the exact shells you’ll carry in the blind. Companies like Pattern Pros make it easy to figure out which shell and choke combo hits right for your setup. Change one thing at a time. Write it all down — gun, choke, load, and range — so you don’t forget what worked. Set up a good board with paper that’s tight so it doesn’t rip when you shoot. Try realistic distances like 30, 40, and 50 yards, depending on what you hunt. Take three shots at each and label them all. Don’t eyeball your patterns; count holes or grid them so you know where it hits. Seeing how that shot spreads out will tell you real quick what’s working and what’s not. If your pattern’s high or low, aim where the dense part hits, not where you wish it did. If it’s got big holes or a donut in the middle, swap your choke or try a different shell before you blame the gun. Things like temperature, fouling, and even new ammo lots can change your results, so check it once in a while. Keep notes and photos for reference. It’ll save you time, money, and a lot of cussing later. Shimming your shotgun is the sure fire way to raise or lower your pattern. Depending on where you shoulder the gun and have a consistent cheek hold will make a huge difference. Put the gun on a lead sled, bag or some type of solid rest to make sure you get consistency. This is key. The RETAY ACE for example, comes with multiple different size shims and casts that can move your pattern so it’s consistent to where you want it. When you hit the field, hunt inside your pattern’s limits. If it’s tight inside 40 yards, shoot inside 40 — don’t push it. If your spread looks thin, move closer or change shells. Once you trust your setup, you’ll shoot calmer and cleaner every time. Do that work now, and you’ll drop more birds and waste a lot fewer shells. – Chris Seaton (RETAY Pro Staff Member)
October 24, 2025 Beyond the Water’s Edge: Mastering the Field Duck Decoy Spread 1. Know Your Target: Why Are They Here? First things first: you’re hunting their feeding ground. Ducks aren’t loafing or looking for a safe spot to rest; they’re hungry. Your spread needs to convey one simple message: “All you can eat buffet” ● Scout First: Don’t just set up anywhere. Find the actual field where ducks are feeding. Look for fresh droppings, feathers, and tracks. That’s your “X.” ● Decoy Type: Full-body or silhouette decoys are best here. Look for a mix of feeder and upright poses to mimic a relaxed, active flock. ○ Goose Decoys shine in fields due to their large white and black colors that stand out in fields and also signal lots of food. 2. Play the Wind (It’s Everything) The wind is your best friend and your most crucial variable. Ducks always land and take off into the wind. So you have 2 options… ● Wind at Your Back (The Golden Rule): If you have great cover and hide with lots of wind and sun, hunt with the wind blowing from your back, over your blind, and out toward the decoys. This forces the birds to finish (land) right in front of you as they fly into the wind. This offers some of the best shooting and in your face action. ● Cross wind (playing it safe): If you have sub par cover and are sticking out with your blinds, the safest bet is to set up for a cross shoot. Instead of birds flying directly into your face looking at the blinds behind the decoys, you set up to shoot them coming from your left to right or vice versa. That way the birds are only focussed on your decoys as they are about to land. 3. The Spread: Shapes that Seal the Deal Unlike the water, field spreads are less about strict geometric shapes and more about creating a large, realistic feeding picture. However, classic configurations still apply: ● The “U” or “C” Shape: This is the field hunter’s bread and butter. Place the bulk of your decoys in a large “U” shape, with the open end facing directly into the wind (away from your blind). The open space in the middle is your landing zone. ○ Tip: Keep the decoys facing mostly into the wind, but vary their directions slightly. Real birds don’t stand in perfect formation! ● The “W” Pattern: Similar to the U, but often involves dividing your spread into two or three distinct groups or lies with a large, inviting open slot in between. Giving the birds multiple options of holes where they choose to land. 4. Realism is Key: Poses, Groups, and Confidence The further into the season you get, the warier the ducks become. You need realism to seal the deal. ● Mix in Confidence Decoys: Ducks are often drawn to areas with other species like geese or even cranes, as it signals a safe feeding spot. Add a some goose full-bodies to the downwind side of your spread for extra drawing power and visibility. ● Spread Them Out: Making sure your decoys have good spacing creates a realistic look and also looks like a larger spread of birds. Take 2-3 steps in between setting down decoys. ● Motion Decoys (Use with Caution): A spinning-wing decoy (where legal) can be a massive magnet in fields. Place it near the pocket to draw attention. However, later in the year, overused motion can spook educated birds, so be ready to turn it off or opt for subtler movement, like a flapper or simple flag. 5. Never Forget: Hide or Go Home The best decoy spread in the world is useless if the ducks see you. Concealment is non-negotiable. ● Layout Blinds: In a field, a low-profile layout blind is your best friend. ● A Frame: Popular due to their size and comfortability, but make sure you have side and back cover. ● Match the Field: Tuck your blind into the natural cover. Weave local grass, stubble, or corn stalks into the blind’s straps. If the field is bare, you may need to haul in extra brush or a bale of hay. ● Positioning: Set your blinds upwind of the landing zone, but slightly offset so the incoming birds are focused on the decoys and not looking directly at your position as they commit to the landing hole. Setting up field decoys is an art born of trial and error. Get out there, experiment with your spreads, pay attention to the wind, and most importantly—stay hidden! Good luck, and may your straps be heavy.
October 24, 2025 Public Land Waterfowl: The Heartbeat of the Hunt There’s something raw and honest about public land waterfowl hunting. No private leases, no guaranteed limits — just you, your retriever, and the endless pursuit of birds in wild, unpredictable places. Public land is where the grit of the hunt meets the soul of the hunter. The reward isn’t measured in straps — it’s measured in effort. Out here, every bird is earned the hard way. Across the country, these wild places — backwater sloughs, flooded timber, river bends, and windswept marshes — are open to anyone willing to work for them. They belong to all of us. And that’s what makes them sacred. Success starts long before shooting light. It’s scouting with a pair of binoculars and a tank of gas, glassing flocks trading across the sky at dusk. It’s learning water levels, food sources, and pressure. It’s the kind of preparation that makes the hunt feel personal — because when it finally comes together, you know you earned it. Then comes the payoff: the echo of wings cutting through the predawn dark, mallards dropping in tight, the splash of a single greenhead folding clean. Those are the moments that get in your blood — the ones that remind you why you crawl out of a warm bed to break ice in the dark. But public land isn’t just about birds. It’s about the people. The familiar faces at the ramp, the guy who helps you shove off in the dark, the shared nods between strangers who both know the grind. It’s about community built on mutual respect — for each other, and for the resource we all share. And with that freedom comes responsibility. Pick up your spent shells. Respect another hunter’s spread. Speak up for conservation so the next generation can hear that same whistle of wings on a cold November morning. Public land doesn’t promise easy hunts — it promises honest ones. It’s where passion, patience, and perseverance come together in the purest form of the chase. That’s the heartbeat of waterfowling. And for those who live for it, there’s no other way to hunt. That’s the heartbeat of public land waterfowling. And at Retay, that’s what we’re built for. Brittany Manuel – RETAY Elite Pro-Staffer
