July 8, 2022 Should I Buy a Wall Tent? By: Justin Hunold Scrolling through Instagram, thumbing down through all of the images of the outdoors that help inspire my adventures, I see it. The wall tent at night, backlit from the lantern inside, stripped trees for the lodge poles with a set of moose antlers above the door, I swooned with idyllic romanticism. If this sounds like as great a picture to you as it did to me, let’s talk about the upsides and tips for camping in a wall tent. All things being equal, camping is an amazing way to take in the outdoors. Whether you spend the night in a camper with AC or in a bivy under the stars, waking up to the sights, sounds, and smells of the natural world does wonders for the human spirit. For the past few years I have spent a few weeks during the late fall in a canvas wall tent. Though the one I have been using doesn’t harken back to the image painted earlier, it does fall in a great spot between the camper and the bivy. My cousin Marc did a bunch of research, separately of my tent lusting, and decided to pull the trigger on a Davis Wall Tent. He also purchased a wood stove for it and so began our soiree of primitive camping for hunting season. This is a quick overview of why you may want to look into a wall tent setup, and some points to think about once you decide a canvas vacation home is for you. Let’s first look into why a person would want a canvas wall tent. Room is the first deciding factor for most folks. Unlike a nylon dome style tent, a wall tent is built for maximum height and, with straight walls, actual capacity for people and gear. Next, canvas wall tents are still portable but it can be the size of a typical cabin that one might stay in at a campground, very convenient. You can set up a full cabin anywhere you may need it. That may be the woods for a week during hunting season, or it can be for a garage sale or graduation party at your home. If I were to guess, the number one reason most folks go to a wall tent is overall comfort and protection from the elements. Canvas wall tents are built with stove jacks to host a wood stove. Canvas tents are naturally waterproof and insulated. Unlike propane heaters, wood is dry heat, and outdoors folks can use it to actually dry out clothing and gear. This alone is next to impossible with any other sort of non-radiant heat. Canvas is a great insulator. Everyone will stay warm with the stove in the winter, no wind cutting through the tent, no water building up. I know, the saying is “cotton kills”. In this case, that blend of cotton or polyester is great protection from the elements, hot or cold. Wall tents are naturally waterproof and make amazing wind barriers. In the summer you can open the windows for a crosswind and stay very cool. It’s definitely not the aforementioned camper with air conditioning, but it’s markedly better than a nylon dome tent for sure. We’ve covered the why’s of a wall tent, so let’s take a dive into some of the how’s, tips and points of interest. The how’s are pretty simple: most companies will offer kits that have poles included or just corner brackets and you go to a hardware store and have conduit cut to length (provided in the instructions). To build the tent you frame out the roof first then install the wall poles. Tie down points are sewn into the tent in key positions. Use all of the tie downs- they exist for a reason. There are a few options for floors, with the two most popular being pallet bases with plywood for a semi-permanent feel or waterproof canvas tarps. After much experimentation, we chose canvas tarps, leaving an open spot in the corner for the stove. If you decide on the wood floor, you will need a fireproof mat for that area. If you plan for a few people to stay in one tent, there needs to be rules. One of our big rules was no air mattresses. This came about in year two, just like the canvas tarp floor, after we realized how much room they take up. Cots elevate the sleeping area, meaning that the user can stow gear under them. They can also double as a seat if needed. Also, designate areas to hang drying gear. You don’t want your sleep system to get soaked because someone else hung a wet jacket over it. As far as the stove goes, you’ll need welders gloves or the like to tend to it often. A kettle of water should be a constant companion of the wood stove for both a source of hot water and a bit of moisture in the air. Some wood should be stacked inside, this way there isn’t a reason to open the doors unless it’s to relieve yourself. There should also be an assigned person to cut the stove off when the party leaves and someone else should double-check! Stoves are not to be taken lightly in a tent, as the wind can move the cover or in the extreme, disconnect the stove pipe (chimney). A small folding table is an amazing piece of kit for a wall tent. It generally turns into a catch-all but it’s nice to have. We would generally stack our non-perishables in rubber totes under it. Again, singing the praises of the wood stove: you can cook just about any stovetop meal on the wood stove so don’t skimp on the cuisine just because you’re roughing it. We keep a thermometer above the table, mostly because it’s fun to see it reach the mid-seventies when it’s in the single digits outside and we are having a few drinks. Another friend of mine uses an ice fishing sled and a solar shower to shower inside his wall tent after a day of hunting. We never went that route, although, by the end of the week we probably should have. With the ability to have hot water and dry out your garments, this means a person can actually wash clothes if needed. Speaking of friends, if you want to stay on speaking terms with anyone you’re sharing a wall tent with for extended time you’ll want a pair of inside-only shoes. Any kind of shoes will work, a lot of people will wear slippers or a Crocs style shoe. Tarps will be clean but you’ll still need shoes. A few more necessary items include a lantern or two, a decent hatchet, a cast iron pan, fire poker, and tongs. I would also suggest a few pots for water or a tea kettle, a French Press or percolator, and a wind-up alarm clock. Marc chose to have an awning built into his kit and a window stitched in opposite the door. Both of these were clutch points of customizations. We can keep wood, gear, and our coolers under the awning and when need be get some air moving through with an open window. He decided to forgo the stakes that the company offered. The first time we tried to use it in high winds we realized quickly that normal tent stakes weren’t going to cut it. From there we decided to use pressure treated 2”x2” cut to a point and notched an inch up from that point. Tie the rope to the stake around that notch and then drive the pointed end of the ten inch stake down into the ground. This action sucks the rope into the ground as well and makes that thing as steady as a Pennsylvania coal miner. If you’ve tent camped before, everything you’d bring with you for that applies in the wall tent world. It’s all about what makes you happy. Try it out a few times and you’ll be surprised what makes the cut and what doesn’t once the comfort side is taken care of. A wall tent isn’t for every situation, you’re not packing this thing into the backcountry in your backpack. When you’re able to access the campsite from the road, by vehicle, horseback, or bike with a trailer, a wall tent is tough to beat. If you’ve been thinking about that camper and you just aren’t sure, take a look at a wall tent. Camping with friends or family and wanting some space, or maybe to feel comfortable solo camping for a long period you need to make a canvas wall tent a consideration. If nothing else you might get to post a cool picture of it on social media.
June 17, 2022 Guided Hunts and Being a Good Client By: TJ Rademacher I’ve had the opportunity to be on both sides of the client-outfitter relationship. I came out of high school and spent a short time as a big game guide in Montana and Idaho. I got to experience the ups and downs of being in the outfitting business. Since it is a service there is a high amount of pressure to get your client into position for the best opportunity you can. Typically, there are fairly large sums of money changing hands. With that exchange come expectations from the client. This is perfectly acceptable. You should expect the highest amount of effort possible to be put forth by your guide and the outfit to help you get the opportunity for a successful hunt. The key word in that statement is opportunity. The critters you pay good money to chase are not in on this exchange of money. I don’t care if it’s a laid-back South Texas Teal hunt or grueling pursuit of a big western bull elk, critters do what critters do and they have one thing on their mind. That is survival. They are working for one more day and trying to not get themselves killed. They do not care about what you want. Where they were yesterday, they may not be there today. It’s still hunting at the end of the day. It’s best to remember this when you pay an outfitter for their services. You should not be a push over if you think you are genuinely taken advantage of to be sure but managing your expectations and not letting yourself think that your money alone will buy your success is what I’m driving at. Here are a few things that will help you choose outfitter and end up being more successful. Hopefully, it lends some light on how to be someone that an outfitter looks forward to having back too. This lays out the thought process on how to be successful on a guided hunt. At the beginning of most hunts there is usually some sort of safety talk from the outfitter or guide. This is a general layout of the expectations, what is acceptable behavior around firearms and other key subjects for the area you are in. I’ve seen and heard about some wild stuff going down. Pay attention to what is expected. You don’t want your guide on edge wondering if they are going to catch a Nosler partition through their ribs because of a client constantly fiddling with safeties and being generally unsafe with a weapon. Follow the rules don’t cut corners and practice the rules of firearms safety. Most guides are the same as you. They love the outdoors, and they love getting after it and being successful in the field. Most take a huge amount of pride in being the one to count on and help deliver that success. They stay under a constant amount of scrutiny from clients themselves and the managers of the outfit. They want you to be successful because they want to be a successful guide. Be gracious from the start. The amount of logistics and prep to get you where you need to be are huge. In many ways the logistics are what ends up making you successful. Stay humble and treat it like you are a team. It’s okay to ask why you are doing what you are doing sometimes. It shows you are genuinely interested and will typically be appreciated if it comes from that angle. The thing I would tell you to avoid is being the person openly questioning somebody who has likely forgotten more hours in the area you are hunting than you have put in probably anywhere. This is not a good way to form a successful team and may hinder your success greatly. Check your ego at the door and be in the moment there with your guide. They will appreciate your attitude. Come prepared. When you are researching an outfit to hunt with, you’ll typically see a packing list of some sort. Pay attention to this and either pack or purchase the items you think you’ll need accordingly. If you must purchase something like boots make sure you are wearing them months or at the very least, weeks in advance of your hunt if you are planning on a western big game hunt. I’ve seen new boots smoke clients within a couple days. Don’t do that to yourself. Along with breaking in your boots or other gear you need to be physically up to the challenge. Don’t be the guy who so horribly misjudged the physical requirements of a hunt that they can’t take advantage of the guides experience due to lack of ability to get to the places they need you to go. This is your responsibility to make sure you have the endurance to do this in advance. It’s hard from the guides perspective to feel a ton of sympathy when you don’t plan ahead. Actively participate in the hunt from start to end. It is about the experience and your guide can see that. You will always get more from someone when you try and match their efforts or assist them in some way. Don’t be the guy who doesn’t help brush and A-frame or at least offer to set out/ pick up decoys. It’s a small gesture that will help earn mutual respect between both parties and in some cases influence your success. This Is especially true when you are setting up 60-70 dozen silhouettes on a Kansas field hunt where the farmer won’t allow trucks and trailers in the field. It’s all part of it and you need to help roll with the punches to be successful. Tip. Even if you are not as successful as you had figured. the effort to get you on the best opportunity possible was most likely put forth if you went with a reputable outfitter. Your choice in outfitter is your responsibility. You should seek out a group of people who are honest and hard working. They typically have been in business for a while and have a good track record of keeping their clients happy for the most part. Don’t try to cut corners and go with someone who doesn’t exhibit most of these qualities. Especially the honesty and work ethics part. Your tip is your sign of appreciation to the individual that helped you have the best experience available at that time. You should recognize their efforts by tipping accordingly if they have done their job to the best of their ability. Sometimes you are unsuccessful no matter what happens due to a variety of reasons. A lot of these are beyond anyone’s control. You can have a skunk at peak rut as well as the day of a peak migration. If you’ve made it this far you’ve seen that a guided hunt is an interactive experience and comes with some simple responsibilities on your part. Accepting These will help you have the best experience you can possibly get access to at that particular point in the season. Plan ahead and book during times that have historically been the most productive for the outfitter in the past. Above all be gracious and positive. Be ready to put in the effort to get you the rest of the way to success. Also remember That this is supposed to be fun. Don’t take things so seriously that you aren’t taking something positive away from the time you are in the field. Cherish each sunrise. You aren’t guaranteed tomorrows. T
April 22, 2022 All Around Shotgun: What does a Do All shotgun look like? By: Justin Hunold A shotgun is by far the most versatile firearm in a hunting arsenal. You can hunt anything that moves with a shotgun. But in today’s social media driven outdoor-scape we are seeing very specific tools for very specific hunts. We seem to be in the search for the “Best (insert game) Gun” these days. And when the budget and seasons align we can differentiate and own guns for specific purposes like Turkey, Waterfowl, Clays, Upland and Various small game. This style gun is at home in any situation. Let’s not forget that all of these “bests” are still Shotguns. So, what makes for the best Do All shotgun? What covers the most bases so that we can spend more time sharpening our hunting skills rather than thinking of the lack of a specialized tool as a hindrance? If given a choice for one gun for all the targets above, a shooter would be well suited to go with a 12 Gauge. The current trend is moving towards 20 gauge and even the smaller sub gauges like 28 and .410, hell, even the 16 gauge is having its own resurrection. These options are being spurred by more consistent and lethal ammunition choices in everyday available factory loads. But we are talking about one gun versatility here, and there is no answer other than 12 gauge for that question. 12 gauges leave very few gaps in ability to handle the task at hand, including big game with buckshot and slug options. Ammunition for the king of gauges was also available throughout the shortages of the recent past. Good luck killing a Tom with a .410 and TSS if you can’t find any, or trying to takedown a few big, fat Canada’s with your 20 gauge when the only waterfowl legal and appropriate shells you can find are 12 gauge BB’s. It’s not that the other’s don’t do the job, it’s just that they can’t do anything the 12 doesn’t, and this relationship is not inverse. Add in the ability to shoot 2 ¾ “ light loads up to the heaviest 3 ½ “ Magnum loads and a good twelve will handle way more than most hunter’s need. Ok with gauge settled let’s look at barrel length. If I’m running through the spring turkey woods, or pushing the understory for Upland or small game my gun would have a barrel length of between 22-24” . A shorter barrel is just easier to manage in tight cover, it makes your profile a bit tidier when pushing through the stuff, and doesn’t lend itself to snagging when a fast shot is needed. When breaking clays, or shooting birds in flight such as ducks’, geese, crows, pheasants or doves I prefer to have a barrel length of at least 28”. There tends to be the misconception that a shorter barrel is “easier” to swing, which is not the case. A shorter barrel is easier to point and begin the motion of the swing, but to truly swing through a target be it live or clay the weight and momentum of a longer barrel will literally help pull you through the motion of a smooth swing. This brings us to what would be an apt choice for barrel length in an all around shotgun. With the idea of a one gun in the forefront I would choose a 26” barrel. It’s easier to maneuver through the woods than a 28” with a 2 inch extended choke poking out, but it also carries that all important mass to help you break clays and deliver big shot at long distances on geese and divers. Plus in my opinion it’s about the perfect length for niche things like, layout blind, layout boat, hunting over dogs in fields and hunting for deer and hogs with buckshot. So here we are, we have a 12 gauge with a 26” barrel, we need to settle on a mode of operation, pump, semi, over under, side by side, single shot? Let’s face it, we can do anything with a single shot, except reliably shoot a double or the like in the field. When an opportunity does come up for multiple targets or animals, with our limited time in the field for most of us, we need to be able to take full advantage of the situation. Or what if it’s a single, and the only shot you get all day, but you whiff the first trigger pull? Man, I’d like to have a second or even third shot. And we aren’t even talking about a fast paced dove field or a crazy 50,000 bird snow goose flight. A well loved dog and gun just go together. If you asked hunters from generations past what their choice of repeating shotguns would be a lot of them would have settled on a pump, but today’s semi auto’s are as reliable and much faster than the pumps of yesteryear. I would choose a semi auto, they are the fastest way to get three shots off if needed. Other bonuses are generally reduced recoil, a good profile for carrying and overall they are generally fairly light all things considered. So, with multiple shots on deck, a fast cyclic rate, and reduced recoil I am able to leverage the tools at hand to have the best opportunity to make my time with gun in hand the most fruitful. This brings us to our final category and honestly, functionally, the least important. Do we want to choose wood or synthetic furniture? I prefer a nice, black synthetic stock with a matte black finish for an all around gun. There are arguments to be made for a camo gun too. Synthetic is easy to take care of, I don’t cry when I scratch or scrape it and it’s impervious to the weather conditions at hand. You should love the way your gun looks, it will inspire you to use it. With that I can understand why you may choose a wood stock set for your gun. Wood is beautiful, warm and is one of a kind. I love the way wood guns look and feel. I have a bunch of wood guns that make their rotations in and out of the safe for days out in the sun. You need to like the way your one gun looks and feels or else you won’t have the inspiration to use it. This is as important as any other feature. This is your one gun and you should love it. The final feature is the fit of the gun, I believe this sorta goes without saying. The gun needs to fit you. Close your eyes, shoulder it, open your eyes. Is the bead there, are you looking down a straight rib, is your finger comfortable one the trigger? The Cast, Drop and Length of Pull all need to be correct no matter what gun you are choosing. A gunner who has the highest end shotgun in the world that doesn’t fit them will get outshot by a shooter with an inexpensive gun that fits them like a glove. Also, with that thought, shoot the gun. Shoot it often, know your one gun, love your gun. Well, let’s put a bow on this thing. If you have different thoughts on an all around gun that makes sense, you might not have tight quarters shooting, you may only hunt turkeys from a blind, maybe you’re not a clays shooter or a waterfowl hunter, there are great options for your particular pie chart of hunting. Yet, day in day out if we sit down and say what makes for a great all around shotgun, a jack of all trades and the best value for your money I think that we can say a 12 gauge, 26” Barrel, Semi Automatic, Synthetic shotgun won’t let you down. It might not be the best at any one thing except for being great at all of them.
April 15, 2022 We Love to Watch Them Strut By: Justin Hunold When you get a group of Turkey hunters together and the stories start flowing one thing becomes apparent, The sounds of spring dominate the conversation. We judge each other by our ability to imitate a turkey, we wax poetic over birds hammering on the roost, the weird sounds we hear a hen make sticks in our minds, hell we even discuss odd things that make Toms shock gobble. Let’s think about the fact that we have calling championships in which other callers judge the accuracy and artistry of the calling sequence presented on a stage in front of the world. For me though, the sounds are a primer and what really gets my motor turning are the sights of the Turkey woods. Hearing them is great, Seeing them is what matters The sounds let me know what’s going on, Tom over there , Hen over there, hunter over there or was that a real bird? That’s the thing, I love the sounds but more and more they seem to be becoming rarer and rarer. Let’s not forget with the progression in call technology and growth in turkey hunting opportunities hunters calling has never been easier or sounded better. This has led to a lot of calls being thrown at seemingly more highly pressured birds. There was an article in a major publication about staying quiet and waiting birds out just a few days ago, this should be the canary in the coal mine of what the sounds of spring are doing to our turkey hunting. Now picture this, you’re walking a ridge top and calling to get a response from a randy Tom. A few yelps in and he thunders from your north and another one hammers from your west, the best sounds. These birds sound equidistant and are both responsive, guess what matters more than the sound of drumming, spitting, gobbling; which bird can you see first. I don’t remember every gobble but I sure as hell remember the sights of the steam pouring out of a gobblers face as he gobbles, the iridescent shine coming off the strutting gobbler all puffed up trying to show off, or the patriotic flag themed dome piece poking through the red rippers and he’s picking his way through the thick stuff. How many times have you slammed on the brakes to see what the flock in the field looks like? How many times did that sight prompt your eye to look at your mapping app to figure out if you could get to those birds? So, as much time as we all like to focus on yelps, clucks, purrs, kee kee runs, spitting, drumming, gobbling and shock calling they are all just sounds in the ether. Clues. What happens if we never get that visual of a bird strutting, or flying down, or a hen sneaking through cover beckoning against you? Let’s look at not only the beauty of these cinematic spring scenes but also what goes into them and how they help us. Look at the more recent tactic of Reaping a turkey, or moving into position behind a strutting Tom silhouette and then shooting the target bird in the face from as close as possible. This tactic works best with a real turkey fan, birds can tell the difference and requires zero sounds, just a natural movement with aggressive posturing from the “Decoy”. Take a look at hunting decoys and the evolution of Turkey decoys over the years specifically. The foam decoys I had at 12 years old wouldn’t even hit the store shelves these days. We’ve gone from hair dryers to reform them to full body molded decoys. Stuff in your pocket to which frame pack carries my two full body Hens and strutting Jake the best? So, the visuals matter on a nuts and bolts level, and with more calling pressure and smarter birds, they matter more than ever.When we are using decoys the Gobbler gets to see what we are looking for as well, visual cues. Setting up in shadows, fully camoed, minimal movement, we want our footprint on the visual landscape to be as small as possible. We have to balance this with good decoy placement, set up to compliment the terrain and scene we are trying to paint with sound and sight. It’s a tough mix between a large visual and the subtle nuances of a natural scene. Turkey’s like to strut in the open in the spring, they are prominent on the landscape in this way, but remember this gets them killed and not just by us. When thinking about the aesthetics of the scene, think about the Hen laying in cover, the Jake just out of direct sight, the Tom not fully silhouetted in the strut zone. You can be too in their face but often you can’t be too subtle. Remember nothing is as subtle as a silent “B” and that’s the sort of play you should hedge towards when dealing with the visual acuity of a Turkey. At the end of the day I don’t believe that the folks who chase spring birds will ever forgo the love and admiration of the music of Turkey’s mating concert. In the end it is probably the most important attachment we have to the birds in many ways. Most of us will never forget the first hammering gobble we heard echo through that early morning misty mountain hop. I’ll never forget the one time I had twelve distinct gobblers answering me and I was too inexperienced to get sight of any of them. But that’s the point at the time I was hunting for the gobble. Now I hunt for the gobbler and I gotta see em to shoot em.To me the other visuals make for a stark contrast to the spring deer scouting time right before Turkey season too. Early spring in my neck of the woods still has snow and ice, a few leftover beech tree leaves hanging on, some oaks holding a bit of their lobed or spiked plumage and a lot of gray and brown. As turkey season comes in, those colors transfer from gray and brown to being splashed with greens of all hues, reds, blues and violets in the flowers that wake up from the winter nap. The aesthetic is striking. But when you hear that bird call in the distance, as thrilling as that is, remember it matters not until you can see all those colors in his strutting plumage as he does his best spring dance for you, the very best sight of spring.
