November 4, 2022 Motion in the Ocean: Adding Movement in Your Decoys While Duck Hunting By: Justin Hunold Go to your local pond, river, lake, reservoir or even street puddle where you regularly see ducks. Lots of things will seem random, the vocalizations, the number of ducks, the mix of sexes, the age structure, the species of birds. One day you might walk out there and see nothing but some Suzy’s with their young ones and other days you might spot a group of drakes with a random spoony in there. They might be chuckling away and hailing other ducks in the air one minute, to being dead silent the next second. There is one thing I can promise that will be the same about all of these scenarios. There will be movement. The what, where, why, and how model lines up with adding motion to your set up. So let’s take a look at a few of the options for each of these principles and help you get more birds in the freezer over the next few months. What are the best ways to add motion into your decoy spreads? This is everyone’s favorite category, gear. These are just some of the options to add into your bag of tricks. This will focus on a few simple options that can be managed by one to three hunters over a modest one to two dozen decoys that will be set up and taken down each hunt. We will also be looking at options that can fit in the decoy bag and be easily hiked, canoeing, kayaked or bought by a relatively small boat to the spot. There are big, intricate, and high production options that we won’t be talking about because these don’t fit this narrow description. Spinning wing Decoys: What are they? Spinning wing decoys are exactly as the name sounds, decoys that are either floating or suspended in the air by a long stake that have spinning wings. The wings can either be activated by wind or battery power. They can be any species of duck and can be either sex. Some popular brands are Avian X, Mojo, Lucky Duck and Higdon. These aren’t the only options but just a few of the more popular ones. Where to use them? Most folks will say that spinning wing decoys are great to use over dry fields. When we are talking about picked corn or other such food sources spinning wings are a must have. They are also great for hunting Diver Ducks, where motion is the main attractor. The other place they are commonly used is to compliment a standard spread in the whole or pocket that you want the ducks landing into. Why use them? You should think of spinners as attractors not closers. They grab attention, like some sort of car ad. Hey come look at this new truck. That got you in the door, then they got you with someone to actually sell you the truck or “Close” you. Same principle applies here. Spinners get the birds attention and oftentimes can get them to swing towards you. They are not the finishing touch though. How to use them? I personally like a floating spinner on a remote. This allows me to control what looks like a duck stretching its wings, as opposed to a duck just flapping away suspended in the air. This is a decoy I use near the X but often adjust depending on the reaction of the ducks. The same idea applies to suspended spinners, hanging there in the air. They are big time attractors. If budget allows I like remote models so I can decide when to kill the motion. This is generally done when the ducks seem to commit to the spread. Spinners cover mistakes and I think that it’s a great investment for newer hunters. Swimming, Splashing, Feeding, Quivering Decoys: What are they? Yes, we turned this into one category. Essentially, we are looking at any single decoy that adds motion in a non wing spinning way. They can swim, spit, sputter, pulse, quiver or splash and they do this by a battery actuated operation. Sometimes this is done by a spinning magnet, or a water pump or even a propeller of some sort. They add a natural motion of a single duck swimming, stretching, feeding, dabbling or any other imitation. Popular types are active swimmers, quivering single decoys , or duck butts that have action. Where to use them? In my opinion there is no wrong time to use these decoys when on the water. You cannot use them on dry land so, if that’s your game don’t bother buying any. I find even a couple of quivering duck butts can add a ton of reality to my spread. Smaller early season ducks like Teal and Woodies really key in on these. I cannot tell you how many woodies I’ve taken using a simple gray quiver magnet…it’s a pile though. Why use them? Simple to carry, simple to set up, and pretty natural movement, this style of decoy is the easiest way to add realistic motion into your spread. A lot of the time they can be a replacement not an addition to some of your other decoys making them great on space saving and set up times. How to use them ? I like to use these often, basically in every spread. Place them in the middle of a cluster of your other decoys to add motion to all. It’s a simple game for every dozen or so decoys. I like one of them to be this style, more if I can afford it. How often do you see a bunch of ducks completely still on the water? Never is the answer, which is why these are so great. The Jerk Rig: What is it? Simply put a Jerk Rig is a decoy(s) anchored on one end, with a piece of elastic material tied directly to that anchor, then a line from that elastic material to the decoy, then a line from the decoy to the hunter. Jerk the line and the decoy will swim and move naturally wrong under tension of the elastic material. There are probably hundreds of ways to make a Jerk Rig. Look it up on the internet, you can use weight, stakes, or a premade kit. In my opinion this is the most cost effective way to add motion to your spread and the Granddaddy of them all, the OG motion set up. Where to use them? My first instinct is to say everywhere there is water and ducks. This application is great in any spread and a lot of folks won’t hunt without them. Some folks will even choose a jerk rig over calling. They tend to be used in shallower water, and in some places with really deep water would be almost impossible(Think Diver Ducks here). If you’re hunting puddle ducks you can’t go wrong with having a jerk rig. Why use them? This is fairly self explanatory. Jerk Rigs are one of the easiest, fastest, cheapest, most practical way to add motion to your spread. You can likely make a jerk rig from stuff you have in your garage. How to use them? I one time had an old timer tell me” Start jerking as soon as you set it out and stop when you pick it up.” and that’s sound advice. Yet, I think just like the other decoys in this article you should probably start the action upon visual acquisition of the ducks and stop when they seem like they are committed to the spread and ready to be finished. There isn’t really a wrong way to use them or a bad place to put them in your spread…..Just use one. So, now you know some easy, fairly inexpensive and deadly options that any duck hunter can add into their arsenal. These are small scale, easily portable and highly effective decoys and tactics to use them in. I will say this, ducks might love motion in the decoys but they hate it in the blind. Keep you and your companions still, and covered. Doesn’t matter if they are two legged or four. If you guys are moving and easy to be seen, no decoy in the world will make those ducks finish. In the end there is no magic bullet and hunting is hunting. Do your job and put in the effort and sometimes you’ll be rewarded for that with duck, but all the time you’ll be rewarded by just being out there.
October 28, 2022 Initial Impressions: How to Keep Your Gun Operating by Setting Yourself Up for Success By: Justin Hunold Imagine you’re there on a premier hunt in the hallowed timber of Arkansas or maybe a two mile paddle back to a slough on public waters that have a horsepower restriction, or even taking a friend or family member out for their first goose hunt over 5 dozen decoys placed with care in a cut corn field. All that money, time, effort and most importantly experiences relying on your gear. And arguably the most important piece of actual gear you have is your gun. If it doesn’t go bang you can’t do the damn thang. Let’s start off by get the obvious out of the way, we firmly believe we offer the best waterfowl gun on the planet here at Retay USA. This article will be centered around to keep our guns delivering performance boldly redefined. This isn’t a sales pitch. This is about how to help keep your gun running when it’s needed most. And although these procedures will concentrate on Retay USA shotguns, the practices are basically universal. Number one, read your owner’s manual. I know “Men don’t read instructions” and that’s great in theory. I mean if you really want to skip this and you wanna go straight to youtube for instructions at least use our official videos. But take the time you’d get lost on Instatokbook and read your owner’s manual cover to cover. You will be able to troubleshoot almost all in the field issues you will run into if you understand your individual gun and not just guns in general. Since you cracked the box to get out the instructions you will now be looking at your new GPS, Gordion or Masai Mara you will see some residual grease or oil on the gun. You’re going to see some of the other stuff that comes with your gun like choke tubes, shims, the optics base, lubricant and even sling swivels. The next step is getting that gun out and getting any residual stuff off that gun. So, the lubricant and a nice gun cloth will help do this and for most folks this will be the end of the initial clean up process. I personally like to bust that manual out, and break the gun down to as many pieces as I feel comfortable putting back together correctly. You don’t want the first time you take the bolt assembly apart to be in that flooded timber we mentioned above. You know over eighteen inches of water, in the dark, with ducks pouring into the x. I personally prefer to strip all residual oils, dust and crud off of the entire gun. I use G96 Crud Buster Aerosol for this process. It strips all the stuff off of the gun surfaces and you can use the straw to get into the nooks and crannies of the bolt assembly. I prefer to strip my bolt down and clean each piece, but some folks won’t want to do this. Once I spray everything off and wipe it down with a gun cloth I let it air dry for a bit. If you’re using a CLP style product you can just reassemble from here. After air drying, I reassemble the gun. I follow the owners manual and check proper function as I go. I will manually operate the bolt, bolt face, trigger assembly and safety. “Thanks to its extreme simplicity and excellent materials, the Retay Automatic Shotgun requires no special maintenance.” This comes directly out of the maintenance section of the Retay USA Owner’s Manual. Basically what it’s saying is oil what seems like it needs oiled. Your bolt assembly, lightly, trigger assembly lightly and if you’re feeling really really froggy maybe the recoil spring assembly. On a GPS look at the action bars. I like a general lubricant like the one included with your gun for most times and it should be great in most conditions. When I hit the colder months I like to find a lube that is built for colder temps and not freezing up. I again turn to G96 but the Complete Gun Treatment. I like it because it performs the operations of cleaning, lubricating and protecting. It maintains viscosity down to -50. Meaning I can run this when I am hunting the Great Lakes or the Finger Lakes during the coldest months with no issues. For most conditions the High Tech Gun Oil that comes with your Retay will be fine. This will all take place before my gun ever sees the field. Or in a post/preseason general maintenance. There are a lot more in the field and post season and volume shooting maintenance tips to follow this. This is the best way I have found to set myself up for success when it comes to running and gunning with my shotguns. It is the set up. I worked at a gun counter for about ten years, all of them at very high volume firearm retailers. I can say that anecdotally when a customer came in with a new gun that was malfunctioning, nine times out of ten it was because they skipped this step. When you go on a long road trip and kinda sit in the car, driving, putting miles on the road, maybe spilling coffee, crumbs and just kinda sitting in your own crud you likely are looking forward to a good shower when you get home. Treat your new gun the same way and it’ll be a lot happier when it wakes up for use. Set yourself up for success. Retay USA shotguns are the best waterfowl guns on the planet. So, do yourself a favor and treat them like it, even though they will work even if you don’t.
October 14, 2022 Wool something Your Grandpa was Right About : Why You Should Be Wearing Wool for Hunting Season By Justin Hunold I was in a white leather seat slipping and sliding down a dirt road, my wool pants couldn’t grab traction in that Lincoln Town Car. My grandfather, two weeks fresh off being splayed open and having a widow maker aneurysm removed from his abdomen, had decided that the opening day of New York deer season was no time to take “bed rest” as a serious notion from the doctors that performed the surgery. I was young, my dad had to work but sent me as the legal guardian of my grandfather and told me not to let him touch a deer. We were both stuffed into wool head to toe, wool and cigarette smoke because my grandfather practiced strict scent control. This was my first introduction into wool hunting clothing. It wouldn’t be my last sit in those woods or those pants, but as the years went on my ideas about deer hunting terrain features changed and so did my ideas of what wool pieces worked. This is a quick run through that journey to this point. The next impression about wool left on my buckskin story blanket of hunting came just a few short years later after reading all about the Benoits. I read the original How To Bag The Biggest Buck of Your Life and decided I would become a deer tracker. Larry Benoit expounded on the benefits of wool in that book. He wrote of its warmth, stealth and ability to insulate when wet. All of these are true, so with that in mind I bought my first set of brand new dedicated hunting clothes. Decked in my Columbia Gallatin Wool Jacket and Pants and a set of Lacrosse boots I tracked a 3 pt (in the eastern sense, spike and crotch) in the snow and shot him at 15 yards with a borrowed .308 Winchester. It happened so close and so fast I remember essentially only using the front sight to place the shot. I was sold, wool was it for me. My bowhunting career started in earnest the following year, and although I loved how quiet my wool set was, the wind seemingly cut through it like a Morakaniv knife through my finger (ouch!). So, I decided wool wasn’t where it was at and bought synthetics for years. I have owned every single synthetic fabric I can think of in every layer for which they would be practical. They have their place, and I now use them in conjunction with wool. Author wearing both a First Lite Brimmed Beanie and Cabela’s Merino Wool Jacket Many hundreds of hunts later and many articles of hunting clothing gone by I have come full circle. I currently run all wool as next to skin layers. I wear wool socks daily not just during hunting season and there is still nothing as quiet or warm when wet. My base layers can be stretched to multiple days of use because wool naturally holds no odors. I use the Black Ovis NWT merino wool base layers. They are awesome. I have three sets and rotate them throughout hunting. They have held up well and come in different colors and weights. I tend to lean heavily on the 250 weight. I also use Obsidian Pants and a First Lite Brimmed Beanie. I mix in fleece and wind blocking layers and some insulating layers with those pieces but wool makes up the majority of my system. Wool is a solid choice for waterfowl as well. With the ability to insulate even when wet, wool beats synthetic in a lot of ways. You can often find me in a wool waterfowl sweater during those cold mornings hunting divers on big water. Bottom line is wool keeps you warm, even when nature is giving her best effort to make sure you’re not. If you go far and hard, you work up a sweat even if you’re trying not to. Wool will help you keep that funk down and stay warm even after you saturate it. It is all natural and the better the Merino the more comfortable you’ll be. Merino is as comfortable as your favorite cotton underwear but it won’t get you killed. I hate when grown men say the word “comfy” unless they are talking to a child but good merino wool can be downright comfy. You also don’t have to spend a ton of money on wool. I have bought some of my all time favorite pieces at Military Surplus stores and second hand. Remember a green wool shirt is a green wool shirt no matter whose tag is on it. Those military, green, wool, fingerless gloves are the bees knees for a lot of chilly hunting situations. You can still use your electronics, gun or calls with your fingers exposed but your hands generally warm. I think if people take from my mistakes and go with these pieces early on they can save themselves a lot of money, aggravation and be more comfortable in the woods. We are out there to have fun. Speaking of funk grandpa’s scent control regime wasn’t far off. Carry milkweed, hunt terrain and learn to play the wind…smoking is not encouraged.
September 30, 2022 The Modern Pirogue : What Do You Need to Duck Hunt From a Kayak By: Justin Hunold A Pirogue is a small boat, which in general description is shaped a lot like if a canoe and Jon boat had an offspring. They are very common in the gulf states, and actually derive from general use handmade boats of the European colonies. They have been a staple in not only waterfowling but also fishing and trapping in the American south for years. Yet, these boats rarely make their way out of the swamps of the Mississippi Delta nearly as often as their utility would encourage it. They are a great way to get into the outdoors. Enter the modern kayak. Not so long ago kayaks were seen more as an addition to the sportsman’s fleet rather than a do all option, but where the useful pirogue stifled the modern kayak flourished. Between whole fishing tournament series, sport specific and price point kayaks they are checking more boxes for outdoors folks on a daily basis, and in a lot of cases are the lone watercraft that the person owns. So, what do you need to start waterfowl hunting from a kayak? Let’s start by assuming you have the kayak, and you’re set on paddling or pedaling (in some cases) the kayak. It can be a sit on top or sit in model, although the sit on top versions are really taking over and are likely best suited for hunting. Personal Flotation Device – A life jacket or PFD is the very first thing you’ll need. This is common sense but it has to be listed. No adventure is worth your life, and kayaking in the dark, cold and inclement weather can all lead to catastrophes unforeseen on a lazy summer float. A PFD can save your life. I would look at a drab or camo color, paddling specific model. They are normally cut high in the back for comfort in a seat and have little to no flotation around your arms or shoulders for ease of movement. This means in some models they will be shooter friendly. Boat Lights– A good spotlight is a minimum and really a couple of bow mounted LED lights are even better. Your headlamp can do some of the work but the bigger lights that are sold on Amazon or in big box stores are really where its at. I’ve tried to navigate my way through a marsh and standing timber with just a headlamp and believe me its no fun. Plus, I’ve never ended up in the exact right place. Let’s double up and call this a safety feature as well, lights make you visible when crossing the water in the dark. A reasonable light or two mounted to the bow of your yak will help more than you could have imagined. Dry Bag– Some folks will use a blind bag in this spot and that’s fine, and hell I still do a lot of the time. When I am making a long paddle or and am in deep water, or using my kayak as my hide I will use a drybag. They normally float, so if you drop it in, you’re all good. I like having my extra layers in there, maybe some food and also some of my back up electronics and first aid kit. Decoy Gloves– I put out and pick up decoys in these but I also paddle in them. Remember waterfowl hunting is all degrees of being wet and cold. The idea is to minimize these conditions to be a more attentive, more capable hunter. Decoy Gloves help this a lot. Floating Gun Case– Nobody wants their Retay sitting at the bottom of a lake. You also want it to be ice free and ready to go when the birds are lighting in. This is the answer. Floating Dry Box– Your phone and other electronics can go in one. I like two so that my keys and wallet go in the other and then go in the kayak dry storage. I can get home without my cell phone, but I cannot say the same about the keys and wallet. I beg you don’t put all your essentials in one place….you can also put some extra shells in the phone box, incase things go winchester or maybe a bonus species shows up like Geese. Hide/Blind– From factory made blinds that start at about $200 down to $15 burlap even if you’re not using your boat as a hide you still have to hide it from view. That’s up to you. I will say some of my very best hunts have come from sitting on a stool in a stick blind with a very well hidden boat under brush and burlap. This all has to do with your style of hunting. No matter what you gotta hide that Yak! Everything listed Here There are now hunting specific kayaks out there and you can always get a pirogue by either having one made or DIYing it. In the end though the modern kayak renaissance has made the boats of today so versatile that you can hunt by morning, regroup and take the same kayak over and fish an evening bass tournament. They will haul hundreds of lures or dozens of decoys, or if you’re like me a cooler full of cold ones on a relaxing evening float. Kayaks have a way of getting you close to nature that other vessels seem to not have. I for one plan on using my kayak extensively to access a lot of ducks and geese that get into some skinny water where other boats dare not go. Just like the pirogues of old.
September 23, 2022 To the Break of Jawn: Top 4 Ways to Figure Out Hunting Access in a New Area By: Justin Hunold Every morning I wake up in the sunscape of some of the largest cities in the United States. I live about smack dab between New York City and Philadelphia. I have also lived in Charlotte, North Carolina. One thing that has always been a priority to me was figuring out the best way to get out in the field and hunt. Even in the largest urban scapes on the East Coast I find a way. Here is how to figure out hunting access in an urban center. We hear about the three R’s in the hunting community a lot these days. Recruitment, Retention, and Reactivation. This is one place where a lot of Organizations, that may be totally in opposition in a lot of ways, crossover. Recruitment tends to be the easiest R. Retention and Reactivation on the other hand, those are the points of pain. Most folks, anecdotally, will point to access as the main reason they choose to stop hunting or just fade out. This has never been an option for me, hunting is burned deep in my soul and I will never be the person who can fade away. So, how does an urbanite or suburbanite find access to hunt? I am not going to take into account things like very oppressive firearms laws, or limited travel options such as trains, buses and subways. These situations are too varied to try to even attempt. If I were in those situations I would be figuring them out first. But here is how I go about getting out to hunt when everything is pointing at turning in my camo for white sneakers and cargo shorts and mowing the lawn or watching sports and reality TV on fall weekends. Mapping-Traditionally, when I have moved, I have immediately looked up all of the public hunting land near the area. This could be done old school with county plat maps, a state gazetteer or USGS scale maps. I would advise using a simple mapping app on your smartphone these days. There are multiples but I personally use Spartan Forge. The mapping is very accurate, has multiple layers and weather built into it. It’s the best I’ve used. From the apps you can find the closest public land, launches, piers, water access and who owns what properties in the area. Now, match this up with your state’s outdoor regulation books, be them hunting, fishing or trapping. But don’t just look in your home state, look in the surrounding states if applicable. I for instance hunt New Jersey a lot more than Pennsylvania (where I live) because I can hunt Sundays in NJ, the license and tag situation is a lot more simple and the public land in NJ is much closer to me than the public land in PA. Think outside the boxes and borders. Organizations– Remember those organizations I mentioned earlier? Find a few that align with your personal views and join them. I belong to Ducks Unlimited, Delta Waterfowl, The Teddy Roosevelt Conservation Project, Backcountry Hunters and Anglers and The National Rifle Association. The Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, Whitetails Unlimited, Pheasants Forever, National Wild Turkey Federation and many more are all great. These are tax deductible, generally, and they will have events. The events matter. From huge banquets to simple Pint Nights, or public land clean ups I have done them all. And with some networking at these events I have gained some good friends, and sometimes in a new area they’ll take you hunting. At the very least most times they’ll give you information that might be key to your hunting or give you a better understanding of the landscape and hunting culture in the area. Local Agencies– We also mentioned the state agency regulation books. Often those same state agencies will hold events, great networking opportunities there. They will also show special hunt opportunities, and give you phone numbers to the local offices and biologists in the area. Use these numbers. I’ve never heard of a state agent that wouldn’t take time to help a person better understand the land, the game or the regulations to make sure that the individual has the best possible time outside. Social Media– This last statement pains me in a way, find local groups on social media. Normally they will say something like “ Smithville Duck Stackers and Whackers”. As much as I don’t wanna be called a stacker or whacker I sign up. You can be an active participant or a lurker, but you will start to understand the local hunting scene from this group. You may even find hunting buddies in the group. Just a warning they will normally have Trolls, Know It All’s, and posts that are complete dumpster fires. These are the reasons I put this last on my list. These tools are listed in the priority order for me. If I had to count on one it would be mapping and my own boot leather. What outdoors person doesn’t like spending time outside, in the off season, to figure out a new place or two to watch the sunrise and maybe a spot or two to watch it set too. I have had good luck setting up my own success through my own hard work. The kindness of strangers is something that has helped out a lot too. And paying a bit of cash to these organizations make sure that outdoors folks have a seat at the table. Don’t forget to take note of whats happening around you in your own neighborhood too. At a barbeque, why not mention hunting to someone that might know someone? Wear some camo sometimes? Do us a favor and put the food first in these conversations, this tends to be very widely accepted and brings people into the conversation. And if Barbeque Bob’s tip helps you harvest a few animals make sure you practice some game meat diplomacy and invite him to have a bite or two. Just because you might be looking at some new cargo shorts and matching holiday pajamas doesn’t mean you have to hang up hunting. Don’t Fade Away, you need hunting and it needs you.
September 16, 2022 Advanced Beginner: What are Some Semi Advanced Needs and Techniques in Duck Hunting? By: Justin Hunold A bit ago we talked about What You Need to Start Duck Hunting. We took you from baseline non hunter to a minimally outfitted duck hunter, now we want to look beyond this. You may have bagged your first bird, a few different species of ducks and geese ,or even have a band hanging from your lanyard. With that, what do you need to “Step Up Your Game” when it comes to stacking ducks up? Let’s take a look at some gear and ideas that are just beyond the beginner phase. Decoys- So, you hunted over a minimal spread of a dozen hot buy mallards. You’ve had some ducks light into them and you were thinking about that image as you plucked them later, but how many ignored the spread? We all like to say you can kill ducks without decoys, lot’s of ducks die over a dozen decoys, and things like that. There are times when bigger truly is better and you would have killed those same birds over three dozen decoys, and maybe gotten a crack at the ones that zoomed past you, not given your lonely dozen a second look. A good secondary investment in the realm of decoys is a second and even third dozen. I prefer to set up around two dozen given the time, space and my own capacity. Having thirty plus decoys will happen at some point, it’s not a bad place to start “Buying In”. Spinning wing decoys are very commonplace at this point, but there was a time when they were so deadly that game agencies debated banning them. I would make an argument that as opposed to that third dozen decoys this might be a better investment for your hunting funds. Lot’s of ducks still come in cupped to land next to that spinner every year and adding a bit of motion to the spread might be a better tactic visually than just adding more still decoys. I also would argue to get a Hen Spinner. It can be used anywhere, at any time of year. Moreover some companies make smaller, less expensive versions of their flagship model decoys. Normally you can have two of the smaller versions for the price of one of the big dogs. That’s a smart buy. Speaking of motion, let’s talk about a jerk rig. Simply put, a jerk rig is a decoy or decoys attached to a string that is anchored on one end, has some elasticity, and is pulled on by the hunter at the other end. There are factory models, and a bunch of ways to DIY this rig, at the end of the day jerk rigs probably fool more birds than spinners and in some situations calling. This is a great way to add motion to the ocean and keep pennies in the piggy bank. Calls- Hopefully at this point you’ve been practicing and have graduated past a drake whistle, you’re confident that you sound reasonably like a duck. Now, before you go and buy a competition grade call, or even a high grade, high rent acrylic call, maybe look into a few different models of poly and wood calls first. With different call styles come different sounds, nasally, raspy, high pitched, low, whiny and everyone has their own flavor they like. Are you sure the one you bought is the best call for you to marry? I would advise doing some dating first. You can do that by buying a few different styles of calls in the less expensive materials. I would look at getting both a reasonable double reed and single reed call. You will likely find the double easier to blow with a bit sweeter a sound. The single has some legs and can carry a long distance. You might decide to use one or the other exclusively. There are a lot of folks who love the ducky sound of a double and hunt tight, never needing the volume of a single reed. Then there are people who hunt bigger water and want to reach out and touch those birds, and make a compromise to call softer when the birds get in close, a single might be their only call. I advise having both and using the right tool for the job. Once you find a style of each you may decide to purchase the high rent model in both, or neither. Calls do not have to be expensive to work. Experiment a bit with that same money and you will likely find a few you like rather than one you thought you might like. Comfort- While in your first few hunts you probably didn’t realize that there are only a few conditions a hunter lives in you’ve figured it out by now. You’re either boiling hot or freezing cold and apparently always wet. Comfort is a huge factor in hunting. The longer you can tough out a situation the more chances you get. Here are a few things I use to help me not just tough out conditions but thrive in them. Merino Wool base layers, taken from old school hunters and modernized by the western big game crew these base layers are now an across the board staple. As soft as cotton, merino wool retains its ability to insulate when wet. Plus wool repels stink, which can be a blessing when stuffed in under waders. I use wool when waterfowl hunting, big game hunting and general everyday outdoor use like camping and tailgating. A Battery Powered Heated Vest is the perfect thing to take that mid morning chill off. I have been using one for a few years now and you won’t find me without it if it’s below 45 degrees. Secondarily, the batteries can be used to charge phones, cameras, flashlights and a pile of other electronics in the field. I don’t start out the day with mine turned on but after that chill sets in from the sweat I worked up putting decoys out I crank that vest up full blast. It’s a game changer. Calling in gloves sucks, shooting gloves also sucks, having wet soggy gloves sucks the worst. A good quality hand muff is the solution to all of those problems. I have gone to fingerless gloves and a muff for most outdoor adventures and this holds true for waterfowl hunting as well. These aren’t the ones you see an NFL skill player wearing, today’s muffs come rigged with Sherpa fleece inners, waterproof outers, hand warmer pockets and even loops for extra shotshells. This is a comfort item that you didn’t think about when first acquiring gear but as soon as you have one you’ll never hunt without it. I love mine and actually have multiples. Plus, they are great for throwing your phone and headlamp in for safekeeping and easy access during the hunting day. The Final Flight- Will any of these things change your luck, make you a better hunter or get you a limit of birds? Actually, Yeah. A hunter who is able to draw more birds because of some better visibility, motion and sound, who is then able to be present and attentive because they are warm and comfortable is more likely to put some birds on the stringer. You still have to do the work. You still have to be in the spot, constantly learning, scouting, showing up. You have to put the decoys out with care, hide yourself well and shoot straight, but add these items to that and guess what, you’ll probably be able to do all of those things to a bigger audience of ducks, and be ready and willing when the time comes to say “Drill Em” .
September 9, 2022 So You Wanna Be a Diver Hunter: An Introduction to the World of Hunting Diving Ducks on Big Water By: T.J. Rademacher Through my journey as a waterfowl hunter, I have gradually moved farther to the dark side. If you pay attention to the industry the Puddle Duck and Goose hunters get all the hype. I’m not saying having big groups of Mallards and Canadas back pedaling at 15 yards isn’t exciting. I love it and if the opportunity arises for any kind of waterfowl hunt I’m there. Unfortunately, where I grew up the puddle duck hunting wasn’t all that consistent and with limited amounts of public water available the opportunities really dried up after the first few weeks of the season as far as puddle ducks went. Here in North Carolina we are really known for the Divers. I remember the first time my dad took me out to the Outer Banks. We wanted to try something different. We went with a local guide to see what the lay of the land was like. It was like a different planet. Big boats, Gear intensive, ultra-big water, and large bird numbers. I was and always will be hooked after that first Bluebill. After that I said “I’m going to figure this out. This is what I want to get good at”, and I did. Even though I am an experienced diver hunter now I still get humbled by all the variables that go into a successful diver hunt. It’s what keeps bringing me back. Chasing that perfect Bluebill canvasback redhead limit. I learned a lot of stuff the hard way. I don’t think you should necessarily, so I’m going to tell you how I do things and what I think is best. Feel free to modify your plan for your area. What I’m going to tell you is how I’ve found success personally. There are many recipes for the secret sauce, and they can work in different areas better than others. This is a list of the main ingredients. Boats/safety, Decoys/rigging, and scouting. Diver hunting typically takes place in the later parts of season. These birds are hearty and only move when the food source they are on is made unreachable by weather conditions. It’s like the puddle duck migration just in a different medium. Often, the best diver hunting takes place on vast expanses of open water. During the winter months the weather can make these areas a death trap for people who are not experienced or not paying attention. The first key ingredient to hunting is knowing the limits of your gear. I ran a 16 ft. Jon boat in my teens and early twenties, and I have had some really close calls pushing the limits. Some of the stuff I did makes old me shake my head and wonder what I was thinking. You should never have to look over at a person in your boat and say. “If something bad happens stay with the boat” and really mean every word of it. Don’t write checks your hull can’t cash. Always remember it’s not just you that you’re responsible for. Boats are an integral part of diver hunting. In my opinion you should have as much boat as you can afford and not so much that it limits you in the areas you frequently hunt. I would say start looking at boats 18-20 ft. and up. You want to be able to get out in the rough water and be safe during weather you can reasonably expect to operate in safely. Observe what others are doing that are safe and successful. You will quickly see what type of rig is going to do the job for you. I run a 22 ft. StarCraft V-hull with a center console that I retrofitted to fit my needs. I don’t have mega bucks into it, and it is a safe, comfortable boat to haul gear for shore/ stake blind hunts and layout hunt out of with 3-4 people. This is what I have found is the best compromise for what I do and the conditions I face most often. I would go bigger than you think you need when selecting a hull. I’ve never found myself complaining about extra space and when the Weather turns, you’ll be able to get back safely and with confidence. Decoys and rigging are a huge part of Diver hunting. As far as decoys go you can never own too many. You can only put out too few or too many. I know a guide that runs 150 dozen decoys at a time. Yes, you read that right. He has a very unique situation though, so he can leave his rig out almost all season. He wrecks them. However, most of us must be more mobile than that and also, the average guy can’t haul or afford that many decoys. My starting point would be acquiring 6-10 dozen decoys. This may seem daunting when you start looking at the price tags of commercially available decoys. While I recommend an either all foam or foam filled decoy if you can afford them, you shouldn’t be discouraged if you can’t afford that kind of stuff at first. I started repainting old decoys into divers when I was in my teens and continued to do so until I recently shifted to buying small lots of all foam decoys. It will not take you long to build a spread this way and it is very affordable to get started. Don’t worry about the species you are repainting just get the colors right and you will kill birds. I’ve watched more birds die over repainted hot buy mallard specials than I can recall. You will quickly come to realize that the amount of time it takes to pick up 6 dozen single rigged decoys can really add on to the end of a hunt or be a huge drag when you realize you need to move 500 yards to get to where the birds want to be. The key to getting set up and picking up fast is by using multiple rig decoy rigging. I use a combination of net rigs and long lines to put out and retrieve lots of decoys very quickly. I’ll go into detail on this in my next article but for now ill loosely define the two methods. A net rig is just what it sounds like. It’s a net that is anchored with multiple decoys attached. This mimics a raft of birds closely packed together on open water. The net is retrieved and deployed by pulling it in and out of the boat. Stretching it with the use of multiple or singe anchors depending on the style of net rig you are using. Longlines are a main line with decoys attached to it that are weighted on both ends. There are different schools of thought on how to make the rig material wise, but the traditional way is a #120 tarred line for your drops and main line. Feel free to change it up if you think you need more than that. I would not go less that this because of the increased risk of tangles. You’ll need anchors for both nets and longlines. You can buy them or make them it doesn’t matter as long as they are heavy enough for your conditions. There are other styles such as layout hunting that I’ll get into in other installments on diver hunting that involve both longlines and net rigs offshore in deep water but for now this is where to start. I’m a big proponent of the crawl walk run method. You really don’t just casually get into layout boats. After you’ve got all the gear or while you are compiling it you need to treat diver scouting just like you would finding birds in a field or anywhere else. This can be accomplished from the boat or truck depending on how much of your local water you can get your eyes on from shore. On the sounds in North Carolina, you’ve got really no choice but to get out and ride on the open water until you find them and get an idea of what they are up to. Same goes for the great lakes. On Large reservoirs it’s a little easier because the spots they are going to be are a little more finite. If you can’t get on the X whether it be because you can’t get to them or someone else is on it, you need to have a backup plan to get in their way and run traffic. Identify where they are going and be ready to set up accordingly. It pays to have already thought through your options. Second plans are like second opinions, always have one. Diver hunting is work and it’s not for the faint of heart. You’ve got to really want it. I recommend going with a guide or someone you know who is into it first to see if it’s for you or not. If you are young or on a budget compile your gear over time or split the costs of gear among a trusted group of friends. Once you get the bug you won’t be able to stop thinking about it and it will take you all over the place trying to get after these open water birds. Tell people where you are going and what time you’re going to be back. It could save your life. T
August 19, 2022 Limiting out on Small Water: How to Duck Hunt Secondary Creeks By: Justin Hunold When I started duck hunting I always had pictures of standing timber, flooded food fields and prairie potholes in my mind’s eye. The locations I ended up taking a lot of my ducks from looked nothing like these “dream” spots. I ended up shooting a majority of all of my waterfowl from a small, untapped and often duck choked feature, Secondary Creeks. Let’s look at how you can build a system for secondary creeks that can get you into ducks no one else is pursuing. Look at google maps of any big river. As you look at the layout of this river a few apparent areas will hit you in the face. You’ll see a good point, island, broken shoreline, or maybe a flat in the back of a cove. It hit you and everyone else in the face. Now , from that same view take a look and see if you can find some small creeks that spurt off the main river. These are secondary creeks and these are your mission. Scouting From my canoe I slipped under a small culvert bridge and into the creek that fed from the river to a gigantic swamp a few miles away. While I know the birds on the river get shot up and the swamp gets a lot of pressure the creek that runs between the two is tough to get into and takes some forethought. This quick detour during a smallmouth fishing trip showed me quickly where all the ducks would end up when the shooting starts. This creek was choked with ducks, geese, natural food and had cover up both sides in the form of trees. Best case scenario is you get to scout these areas by water or foot, worst case you escout them. What I like to look for is a simple pool or bend in the creek, outside bends will have fast water so for my money I prefer an inside bend with its slower current. If you can find a point or oxbow even better but remember we are working on a micro habitat so they won’t be hugely apparent. These areas will likely hold natural food for puddlers. If you have to go in completely blind, use these as a good bet for a set up. If you get to scout ahead of time, this is where I would start and expect to see ducks. Gear Paddling my canoe under the culvert before daylight I was careful not to make too much paddling noise. My headlamp shined off of the dozen decoys , spinner and shotgun case I had with me. If this spot held ducks like it had in the late summer I wouldn’t have to worry about a huge set up. This style of hunting is a game for a minimalist set up. These are small spots, the draw is the isolation, cover, food, and lack of pressure. Pack accordingly. A Canoe or Kayak are probably the best ways to access these small creeks. I like to carry a dozen high quality mallard decoys, although these can be tailored to your regions and species, one or two spinning wing decoys and maybe a quiver decoy of some sort. There will be natural movement imparted by the moving water, which is really awesome. I will carry a few Canada silhouettes from time to time depending on how the seasons crossover or overlap. I have put these to use even in this small area. This is a great scenario to try out a 20 gauge, with the generally tight shooting and decoying birds. I like a light gun with an fairly open choke. Small creeks mean close birds, and if you’re setting up in the right spot they will be lighting into your small spread. A 12 gauge will work by all means just keep in mind the shots will probably be right in your face. Choose your choke and your load accordingly. The basic waterfowl load out will work, blind bag, head lamp, clothing and waders. I really like carrying a marsh stool or dove stool. Normally building a brush blind is a pretty easy task in these locations. Their isolation leads to ample brush build up of all sorts Set Up Brushed into a small impromptu blind made of a few branches and some grass my watch let me know it was legal shooting, and not five minutes later I head the whistling wings bombing overhead and after one pass and a turn two Wood Ducks arched through the trees and tried to touch down. My gun went off and a beautiful Drake hit the water. This was the beginning but it would be repeated throughout this hunt with Mallards and Woodies both. Using natural barriers and cover is the way to go in these situations. I love making a nice easy blind by brushing in a deadfall if possible. Otherwise I will just tuck myself into whatever cover is available. From there I use a small scattered spread of decoys. I leave the J’s and U’s for the big water. I normally set the dekes out by hand but in smaller pairs or triples. I put the spinners on staked on the edge of the opposite bank. This simple spread has accounted for more puddle ducks than any other set up I have ever hunted them with. Small Water Big limits After stowing all of my gear I paddled out of the little stream just a few short hours later than I had entered, I was lighter on shells and heavier on Ducks. Having killed my one man limit that morning I chuckled as I loaded up within sight of a big river boat blind, knowing I hadn’t heard a shot from them all morning. For once I got it right and the slim and trim was where it was at. I have moved around the eastern seaboard, and when it comes to finding new waterfowl hunting this is my go to technique. You can walk into these spots a lot of the time, I always have a kayak or canoe, and when you don’t know anyone keeping it simple can make all the difference. These secondary creeks are my secret spot to kill limits of ducks when I feel like I don’t know what I am doing. Now it’s your secret too.
August 12, 2022 An Argument for Sub Gauges: Why you should hunt with a 20 By: T.J. Rademacher The venerable 12 gauge can do it all. It can be loaded in a 3 1/2-inch configuration and pack enough payload to knock down just about any small to medium sized game animal that walks or flies on this continent. Most 12-gauge auto loaders will reliably cycle all common light 2 ¾ trap and skeet loads available. Most folks feel this is enough. Is there really a good argument for sub gauges in 2022? I’ll admit when the sub gauge craze resurfaced recently in the waterfowl community I may have pictured a person behind a pair of horn rimmed glasses with a man bun, especially when I heard someone express their passion for shooting ducks over decoys with their 28 gauge. A 12 gauge makes things more dead and does a better job right? I mean what in the skinny jeans and mustache wax are these guys talking about? Well, turns out there actually are quite a few arguments for their use. I’m not a complete convert to the smallest of fowling pieces, but I do have to admit some of the merits make sense. I also use a 20 gauge quite regularly now. To be completely honest there really isn’t much that a twenty gauge gives up with the modern loads that a 12 gauge is going to offer a distinct advantage in for general purposes. Obviously pay loads are lighter but it’s to the point of splitting hairs for most applications one would likely encounter in the field. In a previous article I touched on shot shell technology. How we have gotten back to lead-like performance in some offerings for waterfowl loads. Most older traditional loads weren’t screaming fast before the introduction of steel. So with the options available now you have plenty of kinetic energy transfer to reliably kill birds at reasonable ranges. Also as I have previously stated in another article if your gun is patterned right it really may not matter what gauge you shoot. If you are being responsible with your shooting opportunities. Your choke and load selection matter just as much here as they do with your 12 gauge. I’ll also add that many serious hunters have found that the patterns from sub gauges are often more consistent than those of traditional 12 gauge loads. Many turkey hunters swear by the 20 gauge and its ability to maintain super tight patterns for those spring gobblers. 12 gauges weigh more and if you are out slogging through the marsh with a gun that isn’t as heavy as a more traditional gas operated model it makes a difference. A lot of upland guys use these lighter offerings for just this reason. There is an old saying that goes “ounces add up to pounds and pounds equal pain”. This is true. Hold about a 7 lb. weight in front of you and then a 6 lb. weight, notice the time difference you are able to keep it elevated. Fatigue is cumulative and after a long day in the field the lighter gun is going to be way easier on you. The lighter weights on well balanced sub gauges allow for very fast pointing for instinctive shooting. This makes them great for times when you are in thick cover and need to squeeze that quick snap shot off at a wood duck spiraling down through the trees. The recoil on a sub gauge is also lighter. This will allow for faster follow up shots when you weren’t quite on the mark the first time. Also for high volume shooting they will treat your shoulder much better. Guys with shoulder problems often find these firearms to be much more comfortable to shoot and less likely to aggravate injuries as badly due to the reduced recoil impulse. Smaller framed shooters such as women and kids are prime candidates for sub gauge shotguns. This is especially true when being introduced to shooting sports and hunting. It is important to ensure that the first experience is not intimidating and picking a tamer cartridge such as a .410 may be an easy way to start building confidence around firearms. Availability of ammo is really not much of a factor for all but the smallest bores. You can reliably find 20 and 28-gauge ammunition on shelves with good regularity. Obviously, this can vary due to the supply chain situations that have been encountered recently but, it is safe to say you can find it even if it’s not exactly cheap at the moment. Sub gauges are a great way to expand your experience in both realms of shooting sports and hunting. You can do it all and with less recoil. Components have come a long way and the gap on performance has closed up enough to where you really should consider sub gauges as an option for your next adventure. They fill niches in your hunting styles you really never knew you needed until you take one for a walk. This is coming from someone who first thought you needed a 3.5 inch 12-gauge load to shoot wood ducks and mallards when I was first starting out as a young water fowler. As I gained more knowledge I went to 3 inch 12 gauge loads and finally after some encouragement from friends and proof in the industry I firmly believe there isn’t a reason not to own a couple of sub gauge guns. You don’t have to but you should if you can afford to do so. It just makes it that much more pleasant. Be kind and encouraging to new hunters and shooters. Take kids and inexperienced people. This pastime can be very intimidating to people who are interested. Be open. Be accommodating. We need new blood to keep our awesome traditions as sportsmen and women alive T
August 5, 2022 A Waterfowlers Preseason Checklist By T.J. Rademacher We are now basically a month out from being able to get after them again fellas. In my home state of North Carolina, we are allowed to start hunting resident geese on September 1st. It’s a great way to shake off the dust and get back after it. The key to having the best possible experience in any waterfowl hunting scenario is being prepared for as much as you can be. It’s like laying down a really good paint job. The key to success is all in the prep work. Here are some things you probably should have already done if you are a month away from getting back into the grind. If you are a field hunter, you should already know where the hot fields are going to be. Local farmers rotate crops yearly, so you should be riding around looking for fields that will probably hold birds when it’s time to start cutting. This is a good strategy for both geese and ducks. If you have been in an area for a while you will have picked up on roosts and heavily trafficked fields in these areas. These are high percentage options for good hunts throughout the season. I Try to do this early. If I can catch a farmer out without totally holding him up from something important I’ll try to introduce myself or if we know each other make sure to get permission on his land again. If you’ve treated his land with respect in the past you will likely have your spot held for this season. If you hunt over water or moist soil units both public and private, you should already have been out looking for the places where the food is going to be. You should be knowledgeable on what ducks actually eat naturally in wetland areas or areas that flood seasonally. So, when you break into a clearing and find it choked with smart weed you can put a mark on your GPS. This is going to be a place to be looking at when the birds get here. Again, you should already have permission knocked out on private land. If you haven’t done this, you are behind and you need to go and do this to salvage what’s left. Being proactive rather than reactive is key so you can broaden your options this season. If you hunt out of established blind sites you should have already made sure they’re still there and if they are in hunt-able condition. Go ahead and remove overgrowth to create holes for birds to land in. You’ll be way ahead of the game when it’s time to be in there enjoying your time afield. Also clear this with a landowner to make sure it’s okay. Verify that this is legal on the piece of public land you are planning to hunt. Do not just assume if your name is not on the deed. You should be scouting boat lanes and channels to make sure there isn’t going to be something that blocks your access. Again be prepared. You should be washing decoys now if you didn’t do this before you put them up last season. Go through every one of them and make sure they are clean and any small repairs are made before they need to be in the water. All of the weights, stakes and other required items for functioning decoys should be inspected and any necessary repairs on rigging need to be made now. You should not be running to Walmart for stuff at 10:00 pm when you need to be up at 3:30 the next morning. Check batteries on your motion decoys because the lithium ion batteries may not hold a charge if you do not periodically charge them during the off season. Believe me I learned this the hard way. There is still enough time to get new ones and install them. Check your remotes on the spinners and ensure they function properly. Everything should be bagged and read to go. I label bags so all I have to do is grab and load things as I need them. It saves time and frustration when it’s late and you are trying to get ready for the next day’s hunt. Your outboard or surface drive should have been running all summer while you were catching fish but if it has sat around for a while make sure the plugs are new and the carbs are cleaned and ready to go. You don’t want to be rebuilding carbs the night before a hunt or waiting on parts when the birds get her and it is time to be on the water. You should already have a few spare parts for items that routinely need to be replaced. I’ve learned this the hard way as my current outboard has aged. You should be constantly inspecting and doing proper maintenance on your motors, boats, ATV/UTVs, and hunting wagons because they’ll take care of you if you look after them. Stop using ethanol gas in small engines, it’s not worth it even if you’re a college kid one budget. It destroys fuel lines and will clog jets on carburetors. Your blind bag should have that 5-month old granola bar stash cleaned out and restocked. You should already have a Ziploc bag of toilet paper ready to go. For further information, refer to my article about blind bags earlier this year. It will get you squared away in a hurry. Layouts and frames should be prepped and function checked. Get that first layer on the blinds so all you have to do is blend them the morning before. Your hedge trimmer should be ready to go for grassing blinds now and all your brush cutting items should be located and in your truck box so you aren’t digging though the bottom of a trailer for them when it’s time to use them. Check your gear. Make sure it’s still in good shape. If you have a pair of waders make sure you function test them before opening day so you can repair them or get a new pair. Make sure you have some wader patch kits available. If you can afford it, have a backup pair if waders. This is one of the best things I’ve ever done for myself. It’s a huge save when you find that briar patch or forgot about that barbed wire fence. Long story short you should have never stopped working on stuff after the season ended. If you are under the gun it’s time to prioritize and get stuff taken care of so you aren’t chasing your tail for the next month. The off season is just another season for you to be keeping the excitement alive. Also you should have been shooting your shotgun during the summer so you are ready to take advantage of your opportunities when they present themselves. Don’t be shaking the dust off with that first group of birds. It’s time to get after it boys and girls. Here’s to another successful season!
