As youngsters, we watched Elmer Fudd chase ol Bugs Bunny Winter time after time with no success. You’d think at some point he’d at least get somewhat lucky? Either way, Elmer was always locked and loaded with his trusty shotgun, although never having success, he had the right idea. Rabbit hunting is a classic pursuit that offers a great way to stay active during the “off-season” months. When the snow begins to accumulate, rabbits become both easier to track and more predictable in their behavior.
As a young man I have fond memories with my brothers and dad, jumping on brush piles and doing more shooting than harvesting. Back then, it was just for fun, looking back it taught me to be a better shot and woodsmanship. Whether you are a seasoned hunter or a beginner, understanding the nuances of winter habitat and selecting the right equipment is the key to a successful day in the field.
1. Where to Find Winter Rabbits
In the winter, a rabbit’s primary focus is thermal cover and food. They need places that block the wind and provide protection from predators like hawks and coyotes.
Primary Habitats
● Brush Piles & Thickets: These are the “hotels” of the rabbit world. Look for piles of fallen limbs, discarded farm equipment, or dense brambles.
● Overgrown Fencerows: Thick strips of vegetation between agricultural fields act as travel corridors.
● Abandoned Homesteads: Old barn foundations and junk piles provide excellent windbreaks and hiding spots.
● Powerline Cuts: These areas are often managed to keep large trees away, resulting in the thick, low-lying shrubbery that rabbits love.
● Reading the Winter Signs
● Tracks in the Snow: Fresh snow is your best friend. Look for the distinct “Y” pattern made by a hopping rabbit. If the tracks are crisp, a rabbit is nearby.
● Girdled Bark: In late winter, when grass is buried, rabbits eat the bark of young saplings. Look for white, “bitten” patches on the base of small trees.
● The “Stop-and-Go” Trick: Rabbits often “freeze” and let you walk right past them. By stopping every 20-30 yards for 30 seconds, you make the rabbit nervous. They often think they’ve been spotted and will flush out of their hiding spot.
Recommended Gauges
20-Gauge: The Classic. It is lightweight to carry all day, has manageable recoil, and provides a dense enough pattern without destroying the meat.
28-gauge: The Best All-Arounder. If you have one of these in your gun cabinet you’re in luck! Between the lightweight shootability and perfect loads, this is a rabbit hunter’s dream gun.
.410: The Expert’s Choice. Very light and fun to shoot, but requires high accuracy due to the small shot pattern. Best for close-range shots.
Shot Size
The goal is to stop the rabbit cleanly without “pepper-potting” the meat with too many pellets.
● #6 Shot: This is the universal favorite for rabbits. The pellets are large enough to provide a clean kill but few enough that you won’t be picking lead out of your dinner all night.
● #5 or #4 Shot: Useful if you are hunting in extremely thick brush where you need more “punch” to get through the briars, or for larger Jackrabbits.
● #7.5 Shot: Acceptable for close-range cottontails, but the smaller pellets can sometimes get stuck in the hide and meat.
Pro Tip: Rabbit hunting with a group of friends or family, not only offers more success but more fun! Working as a team to work or push fence lines, having someone kick brush piles while others stand post is a great way to increase your chances.
