August 12, 2022 An Argument for Sub Gauges: Why you should hunt with a 20 By: T.J. RademacherThe venerable 12 gauge can do it all. It can be loaded in a 3 1/2-inch configuration and pack enough payload to knock down just about any small to medium sized game animal that walks or flies on this continent. Most 12-gauge auto loaders will reliably cycle all common light 2 ¾ trap and skeet loads available. Most folks feel this is enough. Is there really a good argument for sub gauges in 2022? I’ll admit when the sub gauge craze resurfaced recently in the waterfowl community I may have pictured a person behind a pair of horn rimmed glasses with a man bun, especially when I heard someone express their passion for shooting ducks over decoys with their 28 gauge. A 12 gauge makes things more dead and does a better job right? I mean what in the skinny jeans and mustache wax are these guys talking about? Well, turns out there actually are quite a few arguments for their use. I’m not a complete convert to the smallest of fowling pieces, but I do have to admit some of the merits make sense. I also use a 20 gauge quite regularly now. To be completely honest there really isn’t much that a twenty gauge gives up with the modern loads that a 12 gauge is going to offer a distinct advantage in for general purposes. Obviously pay loads are lighter but it’s to the point of splitting hairs for most applications one would likely encounter in the field.In a previous article I touched on shot shell technology. How we have gotten back to lead-like performance in some offerings for waterfowl loads. Most older traditional loads weren’t screaming fast before the introduction of steel. So with the options available now you have plenty of kinetic energy transfer to reliably kill birds at reasonable ranges. Also as I have previously stated in another article if your gun is patterned right it really may not matter what gauge you shoot. If you are being responsible with your shooting opportunities. Your choke and load selection matter just as much here as they do with your 12 gauge. I’ll also add that many serious hunters have found that the patterns from sub gauges are often more consistent than those of traditional 12 gauge loads. Many turkey hunters swear by the 20 gauge and its ability to maintain super tight patterns for those spring gobblers.12 gauges weigh more and if you are out slogging through the marsh with a gun that isn’t as heavy as a more traditional gas operated model it makes a difference. A lot of upland guys use these lighter offerings for just this reason. There is an old saying that goes “ounces add up to pounds and pounds equal pain”. This is true. Hold about a 7 lb. weight in front of you and then a 6 lb. weight, notice the time difference you are able to keep it elevated. Fatigue is cumulative and after a long day in the field the lighter gun is going to be way easier on you. The lighter weights on well balanced sub gauges allow for very fast pointing for instinctive shooting. This makes them great for times when you are in thick cover and need to squeeze that quick snap shot off at a wood duck spiraling down through the trees.The recoil on a sub gauge is also lighter. This will allow for faster follow up shots when you weren’t quite on the mark the first time. Also for high volume shooting they will treat your shoulder much better. Guys with shoulder problems often find these firearms to be much more comfortable to shoot and less likely to aggravate injuries as badly due to the reduced recoil impulse. Smaller framed shooters such as women and kids are prime candidates for sub gauge shotguns. This is especially true when being introduced to shooting sports and hunting. It is important to ensure that the first experience is not intimidating and picking a tamer cartridge such as a .410 may be an easy way to start building confidence around firearms.Availability of ammo is really not much of a factor for all but the smallest bores. You can reliably find 20 and 28-gauge ammunition on shelves with good regularity. Obviously, this can vary due to the supply chain situations that have been encountered recently but, it is safe to say you can find it even if it’s not exactly cheap at the moment.Sub gauges are a great way to expand your experience in both realms of shooting sports and hunting. You can do it all and with less recoil. Components have come a long way and the gap on performance has closed up enough to where you really should consider sub gauges as an option for your next adventure. They fill niches in your hunting styles you really never knew you needed until you take one for a walk. This is coming from someone who first thought you needed a 3.5 inch 12-gauge load to shoot wood ducks and mallards when I was first starting out as a young water fowler. As I gained more knowledge I went to 3 inch 12 gauge loads and finally after some encouragement from friends and proof in the industry I firmly believe there isn’t a reason not to own a couple of sub gauge guns. You don’t have to but you should if you can afford to do so. It just makes it that much more pleasant.Be kind and encouraging to new hunters and shooters. Take kids and inexperienced people. This pastime can be very intimidating to people who are interested. Be open. Be accommodating. We need new blood to keep our awesome traditions as sportsmen and women aliveT
August 5, 2022 A Waterfowlers Preseason Checklist By T.J. Rademacher We are now basically a month out from being able to get after them again fellas. In my home state of North Carolina, we are allowed to start hunting resident geese on September 1st. It’s a great way to shake off the dust and get back after it. The key to having the best possible experience in any waterfowl hunting scenario is being prepared for as much as you can be. It’s like laying down a really good paint job. The key to success is all in the prep work. Here are some things you probably should have already done if you are a month away from getting back into the grind.If you are a field hunter, you should already know where the hot fields are going to be. Local farmers rotate crops yearly, so you should be riding around looking for fields that will probably hold birds when it’s time to start cutting. This is a good strategy for both geese and ducks. If you have been in an area for a while you will have picked up on roosts and heavily trafficked fields in these areas. These are high percentage options for good hunts throughout the season. I Try to do this early. If I can catch a farmer out without totally holding him up from something important I’ll try to introduce myself or if we know each other make sure to get permission on his land again. If you’ve treated his land with respect in the past you will likely have your spot held for this season.If you hunt over water or moist soil units both public and private, you should already have been out looking for the places where the food is going to be. You should be knowledgeable on what ducks actually eat naturally in wetland areas or areas that flood seasonally. So, when you break into a clearing and find it choked with smart weed you can put a mark on your GPS. This is going to be a place to be looking at when the birds get here. Again, you should already have permission knocked out on private land. If you haven’t done this, you are behind and you need to go and do this to salvage what’s left. Being proactive rather than reactive is key so you can broaden your options this season.If you hunt out of established blind sites you should have already made sure they’re still there and if they are in hunt-able condition. Go ahead and remove overgrowth to create holes for birds to land in. You’ll be way ahead of the game when it’s time to be in there enjoying your time afield. Also clear this with a landowner to make sure it’s okay. Verify that this is legal on the piece of public land you are planning to hunt. Do not just assume if your name is not on the deed. You should be scouting boat lanes and channels to make sure there isn’t going to be something that blocks your access. Again be prepared.You should be washing decoys now if you didn’t do this before you put them up last season. Go through every one of them and make sure they are clean and any small repairs are made before they need to be in the water. All of the weights, stakes and other required items for functioning decoys should be inspected and any necessary repairs on rigging need to be made now. You should not be running to Walmart for stuff at 10:00 pm when you need to be up at 3:30 the next morning. Check batteries on your motion decoys because the lithium ion batteries may not hold a charge if you do not periodically charge them during the off season. Believe me I learned this the hard way. There is still enough time to get new ones and install them. Check your remotes on the spinners and ensure they function properly. Everything should be bagged and read to go. I label bags so all I have to do is grab and load things as I need them. It saves time and frustration when it’s late and you are trying to get ready for the next day’s hunt. Your outboard or surface drive should have been running all summer while you were catching fish but if it has sat around for a while make sure the plugs are new and the carbs are cleaned and ready to go. You don’t want to be rebuilding carbs the night before a hunt or waiting on parts when the birds get her and it is time to be on the water. You should already have a few spare parts for items that routinely need to be replaced. I’ve learned this the hard way as my current outboard has aged. You should be constantly inspecting and doing proper maintenance on your motors, boats, ATV/UTVs, and hunting wagons because they’ll take care of you if you look after them. Stop using ethanol gas in small engines, it’s not worth it even if you’re a college kid one budget. It destroys fuel lines and will clog jets on carburetors. Your blind bag should have that 5-month old granola bar stash cleaned out and restocked. You should already have a Ziploc bag of toilet paper ready to go. For further information, refer to my article about blind bags earlier this year. It will get you squared away in a hurry. Layouts and frames should be prepped and function checked. Get that first layer on the blinds so all you have to do is blend them the morning before. Your hedge trimmer should be ready to go for grassing blinds now and all your brush cutting items should be located and in your truck box so you aren’t digging though the bottom of a trailer for them when it’s time to use them.Check your gear. Make sure it’s still in good shape. If you have a pair of waders make sure you function test them before opening day so you can repair them or get a new pair. Make sure you have some wader patch kits available. If you can afford it, have a backup pair if waders. This is one of the best things I’ve ever done for myself. It’s a huge save when you find that briar patch or forgot about that barbed wire fence.Long story short you should have never stopped working on stuff after the season ended. If you are under the gun it’s time to prioritize and get stuff taken care of so you aren’t chasing your tail for the next month. The off season is just another season for you to be keeping the excitement alive. Also you should have been shooting your shotgun during the summer so you are ready to take advantage of your opportunities when they present themselves. Don’t be shaking the dust off with that first group of birds. It’s time to get after it boys and girls. Here’s to another successful season!
June 3, 2022 What Shells are Best for Waterfowl Hunting Pt 2 A cannonball in the shallow end of shotshell selectionBy: TJ RademacherIn my last article I talked about the evolution of the modern waterfowl shot shell and how we have gotten back to offerings available that closely match the performance of lead. Hell, in some ways they might be better. So, you’ve got a whole lot of choices! Honestly, you can do well with any of the modern offerings. The knowledge I’m about to leave with you will help you understand what sizes of shot in a given material for some general situations. Some of this might surprise you.Since we are talking about shot let’s talk about chokes for a minute before we get too deep into this. Chokes obviously effect your pattern size and density (pellet count) through tighter or looser constrictions. You can go as far down the rabbit hole as you want on how company A guarantees 50% denser patterns and company B says birds will actually put themselves on your strap because if the decreased shot string length produced by their wad grabber technology. I don’t care what kind of snake its named after or what type of violent weather pattern its supposed emulate. Your choke and shotgun combo will literally be not worth a damn if you don’t pattern it with whatever load you choose to run through it. One more thing to consider for those who can’t or choose not spend money on some of the more expensive choke options your shotgun probably came with a few factory chokes. Just because its stock doesn’t mean it doesn’t work. Try them out with some of the partial boxes of shells you have. Get some cardboard out draw a 40-inch circle on it and shoot it. The results may surprise you.Let me preface this next part with the following, it’s an educated opinion. I’m not a ballistician and my physics formula game is weak so if you don’t completely agree with everything I have to say I’m sorry for any imperfections. There are tons of studies about the actual science of why a certain shot size does what it does as it travels down range or when it makes contact with a bird. I highly suggest you read some of the stuff by Tom Roster if you want a real understanding of the science. If you like the details like me, you will find this information extremely interesting. This is not that kind of article though. I’m going off the research that I was able to digest from folks like Tom over the years and the experiences I have had in the field. Here are the cliff notes.Ditch the 3.5 inch shells. You don’t need them. The tradeoff for more powder and heavier pay loads is more recoil. Recoil affects your ability to be able to get back on target after you either miss or you are trying to get after that other drake you see slipping out the back. Even if you are pass shooting I hold the same opinion. If you are shooting a steel shot shell, I recommend a 3inch shell. You can get more than enough speed to kill birds as long as you are choosing the right size shot and plenty enough payload for dense patterns. If you choose to go with Bismuth or tungsten I maintain that you really don’t need anything more than a 2 ¾ inch shell for birds inside of 40ish yards. This is because we are back to the near lead performance level with bismuth and way beyond with tungsten. I’ve also found that tungsten, bismuth and steel pattern out of 2 3/4 and 3 inch shell more uniformly and denser than 3.5-inch shells in my results. This is just my experience, but hey it jives with the science too. It’s weird how that stuff works.On to shot size. I don’t really see why you would need to shoot more than BB in a quality steel load for any North American waterfowl. To be completely honest I think #2 shot is plenty if your pattern is doing what is supposed to and you are being ethical with your distances. Here is why the shot is roughly a sphere. It’s not super aerodynamic like a bullet so the larger the sphere the more drag it creates. its gong to slow down faster than a slightly smaller shot and also when it hits the bird it probably going to drag more crap with it through the wound channel. So at the effective ranges shotgun operate in the #2 shot will most likely be traveling faster longer and penetrate deeper. This is why I would go with #2 for big ducks and Geese. For smaller ducks I go with #4 and #6 shot sizes. If its early season teal, go with the extra pellets #6 offers. If you feel like you need some more thump for those wood ducks, widgeon and even a pintail if he’s close go #4. This is what I consider optimal If you choose steel.If you go with the bismuth and tungsten blends you can drop a couple shot sizes and expect The same performance you had with your steel loads. You are going to pick up some density in your patterns with the same sort of ballistic results in a larger steel load. This is where I have found is the happy medium for me. I’m getting lead-ish performance for a little bit more. Plus, I get fewer holes in my pattern. These make the most sense to me if you can make room for it in the budget. Also consider this, if the amount of shooting you do is low volume and opportunities are hard to come by it may be advantageous to use a higher density shell. You will not be burning through them as fast. I’ve adopted this approach because in my home state of North Carolina I can count on one hand the times I’ve ever gotten close to going through a box of shells in a single hunt. Food for thought.If you can justify them and want to shoot a pure tungsten load more power to you. I’ve shot a handful of boxes at birds and patterned them and they are truly devastating on and off paper. I know for a fact that #9 and #8 will crush mallards at all ethical ranges. I’ve not seen it but have heard of people putting geese down with #7 1/2. The patterns are dense enough that you do not have to worry about a bird slipping through. There is just not enough room. If you put a good shot on them with tungsten odds are the bird is going down hard. However, the price is asinine. We are talking around 70-90 bucks for a box of 10. It’s hard to wrap your brain around that kind of price tag for waterfowl hunting. If the cost was no object I would shoot these. For now, I’ll stay in my budget’s lane.I encourage everyone to use their best judgment on what shells to pick. Don’t get too hung up on the material because you can have success with all off the flavors of shot shell on the market. What you should get hung up on is how a given load performs out of your particular shotgun. Don’t get caught up in the opinions of others either before you try something. Don’t let anyone price shame you or tell you it’s not good enough. If it patterns well you will be just fine. Remember you have to find them before you can shoot them. I recommend money be spent on fuel and a decent set of binoculars before I got carried away with ammunition.Drink water… there is nothing worse than pulling your foot out of wader boots with a calf cramp.T
