February 3, 2023 Whistlers- Hunting Golden Eyes By: T.J. Rademacher Golden Eyes are great shooting often from the shore Goldeneye are typically a bonus bird for most diver hunters. They are typically more drawn to their own kind and are not as likely to fully commit to a spread of mixed blocks. Many shots are taken at passing ranges for folks more interested in the other diving duck varieties. For the Last few years I have ended up on waterways chasing divers on both the Mississippi and Central flyways. Out of necessity I was forced to figure out the goldeneye game because the other birds were stale or not moving as much. Here is what I know now after spending some time targeting these birds specifically. When scouting a hunt for these birds you are looking for where they are headed to eat just like any other diver. The process is really the same as anything you might encounter looking for bluebills or redheads. The difference is in my experience is you are looking closer to rocky shores or open water bordering this type of area. In my experience you encounter goldeneye in rafts smaller in size than other divers. They seem to end up strung out loosely in areas they are feeding or loafing in. they are primarily feeding on mussels, clams, snails, crustaceans and sometimes small fish from the birds ta hive inspected while cleaning them. Once you find a concentration you can either push them out gently and set up for their return or you can traffic them. The main thing is covering water and finding a few different spots to try out or make a strategy for future hunts Use any means necessary to get to the X Getting on the X is tough. The X is usually a place where the birds can’t be targeted in most of the places I hunted. Most if these waterways include large areas that are off limits and are waterfowl refuges. So you instead find yourself looking for the soft X. This is usually less predictable and changes daily. Most of the times I did find a concentration of birds it was a mid-day loaf spot. We would leave them be and come back later the next morning and set up after having a go at the more un cooperative rafts of other divers. Pushing them out seemed to do more harm than good on this type of spot because they were not actively using it as a feeding spot so the pressure of gently bumping them usually had them picking the next least pressured spot and not many coming back. We would typically set a spread of 8 or so oversized GE decoys and nothing else. This typically did the trick for birds returning to the area. For trafficking we would pick the best spot to get in their way. If shore hunting, we would try and get one point the they swing close to. The use a layout boat to get in their way in spots where they were moving to and from spots to eat and loaf has become the main way to consistently kill these birds. We also used up to 3 dozen GE decoys to get birds to decoy. We had very mixed results with having comb spread with the most success coming from GE only spreads. It’s a lot of work in general to layout hunt diving ducks but this technique paid off big time when the going got tough. We a were able to scratch out enough birds to fill in with our bluebills to make the effort more worthwhile. Here’s another thing I learned about Goldeneyes. They are not trash ducks. They are excellent table fare. I’m not talking about plucking the and preparing them with the skin on like puddle duck. We all know this is probably a silly idea given their diet. However, the typical breasting method turned out great poppers and stir-fry’s. I was careful to remove all fat and silver skin from the meat. I also typically brine the breasts as well. It seems help with the taste of the finished product. Another way to prepare them is by braising them down in a crock pot. The final product to a tender pulled pork type of protein that goes great on sandwiches and my personal favorite Korean barbeque sliders. Whoever tells you can’t eat goldeneyes or says they are not edible probably got ahold of some that were not prepared well. Prep is king with wild game meat especially with animals that have a specific diet. Scratching out birds in places you wouldn’t typically think of Learning to nail down a measurable amount of success taking goldeneye consistently was a very rewarding experience. Sometimes the adaptations we make to figure out a path to success when the conditions aren’t exactly ideal are what we look back on the most fondly. I remember being very frustrated at times during their navigation of this learning curve. As is the case with most types of water fowling staying persistent and making the best decision you can based on the info you are receiving from the environment around is what will typically make you a little more successful. Now go and get after the whistlers.
December 9, 2022 2 is the Magic Number- What Shot Size Should You be Using for Waterfowl Hunting By: Justin Hunold Empty hulls signifying a successful venture onto the back water. A 12 gauge 3″ #2 will handle this sort of work marvelously. Let’s start by saying there is no one size fits all situations in waterfowl hunting. A lot of “Gospel Truths” to some folks maybe hocus pocus to others. “I only need half a dozen Mallard Decoys and a Jerk rig.” – Not on the coasts of North and South Carolina. “ Canada’s are dumb over water.”- Not if you shot em up where they roost over the same water. “ You gotta have spinners out to add visibility.” – Not if you’re way down South and those birds have been shot at over Spinners for a few thousand miles. I’m going to stick my neck out here and give you a truth that I and a few of my friends cling to, if a hunter shows up with a 12 gauge loaded with 3” #2’s in anywhere from 1 ⅛ to 1 ½ Oz of steel shot they can handle just about any waterfowl situation they might get thrown into. We are focusing on steel shot and not other non toxics like Bismuth or Tungsten. This will be a matter of KISS or Keep it Simple Stupid. Because let’s face it we all get out smarted by birds so the stupid part applies and keeping it simple makes you a more efficient killer. When Not To Use #2 Let’s look at some reasons you might not want to be shooting #2. If there is one argument against #2 in all situations, everything is a nail if all you have is a hammer argument…kinda. Shot size and choke constriction work together and can be very situational. So, it stands to reason that although a #2 might be great at a lot, it’s not optimum for some applications. Early Season Teal, Gadwal and Woodies might be very common in your area. In fact a lot of places have a “Teal Season”. This is a place where a #2 can work but shouldn’t be the first choice. These ducks are small, fast and maneuverable. Most hunters will opt for a #3 or #4 in Steel for this sort of hunt. Likely this will get paired up with a bit more open a choke as well. In areas of extremes either especially big or small birds a #2 sits in the middle of the bell curve. There may be better choices but it will certainly work. Most of the time when taking on the little ducks we will be expecting them in close with shots over decoys. With this in mind small ducks in close calls for smaller shot with good pattern density. The little guys aren’t as hearty as say a diver and a hunter will be better suited with less holes in their pattern. This isn’t to say a #2 won’t work, it just isn’t the best option. The other extreme is late season geese. I’ve hunted Canada’s coming off the Finger Lakes that had what seemed like inches of fat on them. When it came to those birds we were starting our shot size choices at BB and going up from there. These are big tough birds that have plenty of cushion for the pushin so to speak. This is a time you’d find a lot of us running full charge 3.5” shells stuffed full of BB or BBB. We killed a lot of birds with those loads, but looking back a 3” #2 probably would have done fine at the distances and circumstances we were putting birds down at. When to use #2 Firstly, if I was limited to one steel shot size for all waterfowl hunting situations it would be a #2. This shot size is about as big as you can go without hampering ballistic performance, it holds reasonable pattern density, and carries enough kinetic energy for most waterfowl work. So, it’s a great choice for a lot of hunters who might be in crossover seasons with ducks and geese, or situations like I was in last Saturday where I was as likely to get a shot at a Blue Bill or Bufflehead as I was a Mallard or Black Duck. Big Puddle Ducks are what most waterfowlers chase. Mallards, Blacks, Widgeons, Shovelers, and Pintails will all be reliably taken with a 3” #2. I know a lot of folks like a #3 for this sorta work but let’s face it the ducks don’t know the difference and #2 are easily found at Walmart if need be. Normally, when I head out to some backwater and I am expecting to encounter the likes of any of these birds my Retay will be stoked with 3” 1 ⅛ #2 of some brand or another. I’m confident that I am not leaving anything to chance with that shell selection. Divers, you might love em, you might hate em but man are they fun. So, here’s a confession, TJ Rademacher and I have been hunting partners for a long time. And have been Long Line hunting partners. We chased Divers when every other person in the piedmont of NC was out looking for Green Heads. We would be out setting twelve dozen decoys, that’s 144 for you mathematicians out there. After all that work we would wait for some ducks with little wings and big feet to come circling in and try to land in our lines. We generally did that with 3” #2’s ready and willing. We killed a few Diving Ducks back then, and I have no reason to shoot anything other than #2’s at them. They are tough and we were the school of shooting until they stopped moving. Shot size matters in the world of tough ducks built to disappear so, this is where the majority of my thought on the best shot size for duck hunting came from. I never met a puddle duck that was half as tough as a buff even if they were normally twice the size. Number 2’s were my go to. In most of the places I inhabit there is a September Goose Season for Resident Canadas. When those 30 days roll around you can bet your bottom dollar that my gun has #2’s in it. In one of my previous articles I talked about a hunt where TJ and I crushed some local Canada’s on an island. We were shooting #2’s. In that same article I talk about my stupid head flairing geese , well we killed our 4 man limit that day and we were shooting #2’s. In all my Goose hunting experience I believe that a majority of birds were taken with a #2 and I see no reason to change. For more about that check out this article about shot size for geese. Stoking a couple Retay’s with your favorite 3″ # 2 steel shot is a near perfect combination. In the famous words of Austin Powers “Who does number two work for?” The simple answer is everyone. This shotshell combination isn’t the end all be all. It’s not the best for all situations but there are few other options for a shot size that can realistically take on most waterfowl situations. If you’re going out with a guide or experienced friend and they tell you to grab something else for a specific situation, take note, grab a box and pattern it and then run it if it makes sense. But I would advise grabbing a few different boxes of 3” #2’s and patterning them all. See which shoots the best and then buy as many as you think you’ll need for the season and then add some. None of us are as good a shot as we believe ourselves to be and no matter what situation you end up in during the waterfowl season you can’t go wrong with the best shooting 3” #2 you can find. This stuff just works.
September 9, 2022 So You Wanna Be a Diver Hunter: An Introduction to the World of Hunting Diving Ducks on Big Water By: T.J. Rademacher Through my journey as a waterfowl hunter, I have gradually moved farther to the dark side. If you pay attention to the industry the Puddle Duck and Goose hunters get all the hype. I’m not saying having big groups of Mallards and Canadas back pedaling at 15 yards isn’t exciting. I love it and if the opportunity arises for any kind of waterfowl hunt I’m there. Unfortunately, where I grew up the puddle duck hunting wasn’t all that consistent and with limited amounts of public water available the opportunities really dried up after the first few weeks of the season as far as puddle ducks went. Here in North Carolina we are really known for the Divers. I remember the first time my dad took me out to the Outer Banks. We wanted to try something different. We went with a local guide to see what the lay of the land was like. It was like a different planet. Big boats, Gear intensive, ultra-big water, and large bird numbers. I was and always will be hooked after that first Bluebill. After that I said “I’m going to figure this out. This is what I want to get good at”, and I did. Even though I am an experienced diver hunter now I still get humbled by all the variables that go into a successful diver hunt. It’s what keeps bringing me back. Chasing that perfect Bluebill canvasback redhead limit. I learned a lot of stuff the hard way. I don’t think you should necessarily, so I’m going to tell you how I do things and what I think is best. Feel free to modify your plan for your area. What I’m going to tell you is how I’ve found success personally. There are many recipes for the secret sauce, and they can work in different areas better than others. This is a list of the main ingredients. Boats/safety, Decoys/rigging, and scouting. Diver hunting typically takes place in the later parts of season. These birds are hearty and only move when the food source they are on is made unreachable by weather conditions. It’s like the puddle duck migration just in a different medium. Often, the best diver hunting takes place on vast expanses of open water. During the winter months the weather can make these areas a death trap for people who are not experienced or not paying attention. The first key ingredient to hunting is knowing the limits of your gear. I ran a 16 ft. Jon boat in my teens and early twenties, and I have had some really close calls pushing the limits. Some of the stuff I did makes old me shake my head and wonder what I was thinking. You should never have to look over at a person in your boat and say. “If something bad happens stay with the boat” and really mean every word of it. Don’t write checks your hull can’t cash. Always remember it’s not just you that you’re responsible for. Boats are an integral part of diver hunting. In my opinion you should have as much boat as you can afford and not so much that it limits you in the areas you frequently hunt. I would say start looking at boats 18-20 ft. and up. You want to be able to get out in the rough water and be safe during weather you can reasonably expect to operate in safely. Observe what others are doing that are safe and successful. You will quickly see what type of rig is going to do the job for you. I run a 22 ft. StarCraft V-hull with a center console that I retrofitted to fit my needs. I don’t have mega bucks into it, and it is a safe, comfortable boat to haul gear for shore/ stake blind hunts and layout hunt out of with 3-4 people. This is what I have found is the best compromise for what I do and the conditions I face most often. I would go bigger than you think you need when selecting a hull. I’ve never found myself complaining about extra space and when the Weather turns, you’ll be able to get back safely and with confidence. Decoys and rigging are a huge part of Diver hunting. As far as decoys go you can never own too many. You can only put out too few or too many. I know a guide that runs 150 dozen decoys at a time. Yes, you read that right. He has a very unique situation though, so he can leave his rig out almost all season. He wrecks them. However, most of us must be more mobile than that and also, the average guy can’t haul or afford that many decoys. My starting point would be acquiring 6-10 dozen decoys. This may seem daunting when you start looking at the price tags of commercially available decoys. While I recommend an either all foam or foam filled decoy if you can afford them, you shouldn’t be discouraged if you can’t afford that kind of stuff at first. I started repainting old decoys into divers when I was in my teens and continued to do so until I recently shifted to buying small lots of all foam decoys. It will not take you long to build a spread this way and it is very affordable to get started. Don’t worry about the species you are repainting just get the colors right and you will kill birds. I’ve watched more birds die over repainted hot buy mallard specials than I can recall. You will quickly come to realize that the amount of time it takes to pick up 6 dozen single rigged decoys can really add on to the end of a hunt or be a huge drag when you realize you need to move 500 yards to get to where the birds want to be. The key to getting set up and picking up fast is by using multiple rig decoy rigging. I use a combination of net rigs and long lines to put out and retrieve lots of decoys very quickly. I’ll go into detail on this in my next article but for now ill loosely define the two methods. A net rig is just what it sounds like. It’s a net that is anchored with multiple decoys attached. This mimics a raft of birds closely packed together on open water. The net is retrieved and deployed by pulling it in and out of the boat. Stretching it with the use of multiple or singe anchors depending on the style of net rig you are using. Longlines are a main line with decoys attached to it that are weighted on both ends. There are different schools of thought on how to make the rig material wise, but the traditional way is a #120 tarred line for your drops and main line. Feel free to change it up if you think you need more than that. I would not go less that this because of the increased risk of tangles. You’ll need anchors for both nets and longlines. You can buy them or make them it doesn’t matter as long as they are heavy enough for your conditions. There are other styles such as layout hunting that I’ll get into in other installments on diver hunting that involve both longlines and net rigs offshore in deep water but for now this is where to start. I’m a big proponent of the crawl walk run method. You really don’t just casually get into layout boats. After you’ve got all the gear or while you are compiling it you need to treat diver scouting just like you would finding birds in a field or anywhere else. This can be accomplished from the boat or truck depending on how much of your local water you can get your eyes on from shore. On the sounds in North Carolina, you’ve got really no choice but to get out and ride on the open water until you find them and get an idea of what they are up to. Same goes for the great lakes. On Large reservoirs it’s a little easier because the spots they are going to be are a little more finite. If you can’t get on the X whether it be because you can’t get to them or someone else is on it, you need to have a backup plan to get in their way and run traffic. Identify where they are going and be ready to set up accordingly. It pays to have already thought through your options. Second plans are like second opinions, always have one. Diver hunting is work and it’s not for the faint of heart. You’ve got to really want it. I recommend going with a guide or someone you know who is into it first to see if it’s for you or not. If you are young or on a budget compile your gear over time or split the costs of gear among a trusted group of friends. Once you get the bug you won’t be able to stop thinking about it and it will take you all over the place trying to get after these open water birds. Tell people where you are going and what time you’re going to be back. It could save your life. T
