December 9, 2022 2 is the Magic Number- What Shot Size Should You be Using for Waterfowl Hunting By: Justin Hunold Empty hulls signifying a successful venture onto the back water. A 12 gauge 3″ #2 will handle this sort of work marvelously. Let’s start by saying there is no one size fits all situations in waterfowl hunting. A lot of “Gospel Truths” to some folks maybe hocus pocus to others. “I only need half a dozen Mallard Decoys and a Jerk rig.” – Not on the coasts of North and South Carolina. “ Canada’s are dumb over water.”- Not if you shot em up where they roost over the same water. “ You gotta have spinners out to add visibility.” – Not if you’re way down South and those birds have been shot at over Spinners for a few thousand miles. I’m going to stick my neck out here and give you a truth that I and a few of my friends cling to, if a hunter shows up with a 12 gauge loaded with 3” #2’s in anywhere from 1 ⅛ to 1 ½ Oz of steel shot they can handle just about any waterfowl situation they might get thrown into. We are focusing on steel shot and not other non toxics like Bismuth or Tungsten. This will be a matter of KISS or Keep it Simple Stupid. Because let’s face it we all get out smarted by birds so the stupid part applies and keeping it simple makes you a more efficient killer. When Not To Use #2 Let’s look at some reasons you might not want to be shooting #2. If there is one argument against #2 in all situations, everything is a nail if all you have is a hammer argument…kinda. Shot size and choke constriction work together and can be very situational. So, it stands to reason that although a #2 might be great at a lot, it’s not optimum for some applications. Early Season Teal, Gadwal and Woodies might be very common in your area. In fact a lot of places have a “Teal Season”. This is a place where a #2 can work but shouldn’t be the first choice. These ducks are small, fast and maneuverable. Most hunters will opt for a #3 or #4 in Steel for this sort of hunt. Likely this will get paired up with a bit more open a choke as well. In areas of extremes either especially big or small birds a #2 sits in the middle of the bell curve. There may be better choices but it will certainly work. Most of the time when taking on the little ducks we will be expecting them in close with shots over decoys. With this in mind small ducks in close calls for smaller shot with good pattern density. The little guys aren’t as hearty as say a diver and a hunter will be better suited with less holes in their pattern. This isn’t to say a #2 won’t work, it just isn’t the best option. The other extreme is late season geese. I’ve hunted Canada’s coming off the Finger Lakes that had what seemed like inches of fat on them. When it came to those birds we were starting our shot size choices at BB and going up from there. These are big tough birds that have plenty of cushion for the pushin so to speak. This is a time you’d find a lot of us running full charge 3.5” shells stuffed full of BB or BBB. We killed a lot of birds with those loads, but looking back a 3” #2 probably would have done fine at the distances and circumstances we were putting birds down at. When to use #2 Firstly, if I was limited to one steel shot size for all waterfowl hunting situations it would be a #2. This shot size is about as big as you can go without hampering ballistic performance, it holds reasonable pattern density, and carries enough kinetic energy for most waterfowl work. So, it’s a great choice for a lot of hunters who might be in crossover seasons with ducks and geese, or situations like I was in last Saturday where I was as likely to get a shot at a Blue Bill or Bufflehead as I was a Mallard or Black Duck. Big Puddle Ducks are what most waterfowlers chase. Mallards, Blacks, Widgeons, Shovelers, and Pintails will all be reliably taken with a 3” #2. I know a lot of folks like a #3 for this sorta work but let’s face it the ducks don’t know the difference and #2 are easily found at Walmart if need be. Normally, when I head out to some backwater and I am expecting to encounter the likes of any of these birds my Retay will be stoked with 3” 1 ⅛ #2 of some brand or another. I’m confident that I am not leaving anything to chance with that shell selection. Divers, you might love em, you might hate em but man are they fun. So, here’s a confession, TJ Rademacher and I have been hunting partners for a long time. And have been Long Line hunting partners. We chased Divers when every other person in the piedmont of NC was out looking for Green Heads. We would be out setting twelve dozen decoys, that’s 144 for you mathematicians out there. After all that work we would wait for some ducks with little wings and big feet to come circling in and try to land in our lines. We generally did that with 3” #2’s ready and willing. We killed a few Diving Ducks back then, and I have no reason to shoot anything other than #2’s at them. They are tough and we were the school of shooting until they stopped moving. Shot size matters in the world of tough ducks built to disappear so, this is where the majority of my thought on the best shot size for duck hunting came from. I never met a puddle duck that was half as tough as a buff even if they were normally twice the size. Number 2’s were my go to. In most of the places I inhabit there is a September Goose Season for Resident Canadas. When those 30 days roll around you can bet your bottom dollar that my gun has #2’s in it. In one of my previous articles I talked about a hunt where TJ and I crushed some local Canada’s on an island. We were shooting #2’s. In that same article I talk about my stupid head flairing geese , well we killed our 4 man limit that day and we were shooting #2’s. In all my Goose hunting experience I believe that a majority of birds were taken with a #2 and I see no reason to change. For more about that check out this article about shot size for geese. Stoking a couple Retay’s with your favorite 3″ # 2 steel shot is a near perfect combination. In the famous words of Austin Powers “Who does number two work for?” The simple answer is everyone. This shotshell combination isn’t the end all be all. It’s not the best for all situations but there are few other options for a shot size that can realistically take on most waterfowl situations. If you’re going out with a guide or experienced friend and they tell you to grab something else for a specific situation, take note, grab a box and pattern it and then run it if it makes sense. But I would advise grabbing a few different boxes of 3” #2’s and patterning them all. See which shoots the best and then buy as many as you think you’ll need for the season and then add some. None of us are as good a shot as we believe ourselves to be and no matter what situation you end up in during the waterfowl season you can’t go wrong with the best shooting 3” #2 you can find. This stuff just works.
December 2, 2022 What Shotgun Shells Should You Use for Goose Hunting By: TJ Rademacher Geese are a common area of debate when it comes to the selection of shot shells to effectively take them. They are large and very hearty animals and some of the most frustrating to retrieve when they end up crippled especially over water. We will discuss what actually matters when it comes to load selection and other factors that matter in the grand scheme of things. Let’s take a look at what you should be thinking about when selecting goose load. If you are using steel shot you should be looking a t shot sizes BB or number 2. I prefer #2. The reason for this is that you are getting more pellets which will boost your pattern density. Another reason and one most don’t think about has to do with ballistics and penetration. Shotgun pellets don’t act like bullets when they impact an animal. They aren’t as efficient because they are round. This slows them down faster as a result as they move through a medium. Also as they move through the air they are slowing down. the more surface area there is the more quickly a pellet will slow down. In my opinion the trade off in potential kinetic energy transfer is not worth the larger shot size at ethical shooting distances. The size 2 shot is more efficient and there are more of them. Another great advantage Is that you will not be switching between shot sizes if you are hunting both ducks and geese on the same hunt. You won’t be under gunned for either scenario. Any good reputable shell manufacture will suffice. Just make sure you go with as high a quality selection as you can afford. If you want to split the difference because you are not convinced, try pattering some number 1s. This could be a good late season option if you felt the need. For those who shoot bismuth or are toying with the idea of switching to bismuth things get pretty interesting. You can drop a couple shot sizes and get the same performance as a traditional steel load. This really ups your pattern density materially. In bismuth loads you can shoot number 4 and be plenty confident in your ability to take birds at common ethical distances. Also as I’ve stated above this will be great combo hunt load that will set you up nicely for Both ducks and geese. I strongly encourage the use of bismuth because it is flat out superior to steel. Also for most when you do the math on a box or two of shells the difference in price really isn’t all that much more for what you are gaining in lethality. As before if you want to go up a shot size for late season birds or to boost your confidence you could go to #3 but it’s not really necessary. One other option is a duplex load. For example, there is a manufacturer that loads a 3/5 blend which is another great option for those hunting both ducks and geese. In my opinion there is no reason to use more than a 3 in shell in either steel or bismuth. In my experience a 3in load is typically going to pattern better. It is also my experience that you will be able to have quicker follow up shots using a 3 in shell versus a 3 ½ in shell. This little advantage is important when you miss or get a chance to take multiple targets during a shot opportunity. You don’t necessarily need all the powder and payload that the industry advertises to take waterfowl. Remember advertising folks want your money. They aren’t basing their recommendation on facts and if you read into what they are saying it could actually be far from the truth. So now choose a shell and pattern it. You need to know what it’s going to do through your shotgun. You may have to do a little searching but when you find a winning combo stick with it. You want around 70 percent of your pattern in a 30 in circle. Don’t skip this step. It’s very important. Also, shoot during the off season. Your chosen combo will work way better if it’s on target. That is about the only guarantee I can give. Don’t get too caught up in this process unless it’s something you really enjoy doing. You don’t need to shoot super expensive shells to kill ducks. Go with the stuff you can afford and put it on paper. Take that money and go shoot as many clays as you can afford. Save the extra mental bandwidth to be thinking about your hide and being where the birds want to be. After all I’ve said it’s going to be hard to tell a ton of difference when you are shooting birds decoying and 15-25 yards because you found them and you were hidden well when they got there. Get out and try new stuff when you are preparing waterfowl for the table. There is this whole other world out there completely devoid of jalapenos and cream cheese that will blow your mind.
November 25, 2022 Doing God’s Work: The Roots of Modern Waterfowl Hunting By: Justin Hunold Imagine you’re dead set on a day of jump shooting mallards on some local ponds or tanks. You took your time to sneak to the edge. You didn’t skyline yourself sliding up to the shooting position. All of your effort is going to feed your family, meat being a scarce commodity. You see the greenheads swimming there, you’re already thinking of plucking them. Then as you pull the trigger your powder frisen( pan) flames and smokes and those once still birds are gone in a flash…pun intended. Back to bread and lard for dinner. This was the problem the entire firearm world faced from the very earliest guns. Whether it was matchlock, wheellock or flintlock there was a telltale flash and smoke. A warning to every single shot. In modern times we are worried about fast and reliable follow up shots, like using Inertia Plus systems on Retay USA shotguns. There was a bit of parallel thinking to solve this problem and history will tell us that god loves hunters more. The first patent for a percussion system was issued in 1807 was given to a Scottish Hunter, who was trying to solve the very problem mentioned above, spooking birds. This invention was the brainchild of Reverend Alexander John Forsyth. Was it divine intervention? It can’t be a coincidence that the first reliable fulminate ignition system was brought to market by a reverend. Just proof that as people change with the advent of technology Nimrod still has a place as a mighty hunter. After this initial patent was defended by the good Reverend from 1807-1821 the percussion systems that followed exploded on the scene….pun still intended. And as always most of these advances were spurred by combat. Percussion firearms with paper and later brass cartridges were commonplace by The American Civil War. Variants of caps, primers and pin fire cases spurred technological advancements in the way of firearm ignition at a staggering pace. Some systems would last less than a decade. Some would evolve. When it came to self contained shotgun shells brass became the preeminent way to stoke the barrel. Between side by side shotguns and brass cases there was a relatively fast and reliable waterfowl combination. By the late 1800’s Winchester was loading brass shells for consumers and they maintained heavy use into the turn of the twentieth century. By the time the years started with 19 there became a debate in the world of shotguns whether it was better to have multi use brass shells or single use mass produced paper hulls. For a lot of applications those paper hulls won out. Save one. Waterfowl hunting. With paper being very not moisture resistant let alone waterproof. Brass shells would continue to be used until waxed and lacquered paper hulls finally won out. With the advent of the more modern shotgun actions, pump and semi automatics, and the “weather proof” mass produced paper hulls we can see the beginnings of what our modern waterfowl hunting roots look like. By this time the modern ideas of conservation were starting to take root, and more modern materials were allowing for more comfortable hunting all around. The wader was popularized around the beginning of World War I and rubber was perfected for the most part around World War II. With fast repeating shotguns, rubber waders and mostly weatherproof shells a hunter from the 1950’s likely wouldn’t look out of place in a blind today. The final invention in that combination that would really bring this hunter into the contemporary era of hunting would be the advent of plastic hulls by the Big Green in 1960. This is where the truly waterproof shotgun shell met the truly waterproof hunter. Synthetic petroleum based plastics and rubber brought mass produced technical gear to the masses. Remember back to that bank, jump shooting greenheads. Shotguns powered by flint and loose primer powder. One man, a Reverend, with a bit of divine inspiration, decided to bring waterfowl hunting into modernity. Without his loathing of the flash in the pan who knows where we would be today? He worked to build a reliable mechanism to hunt fowl with, and we continue with that tradition to try to bring you the best possible experience chasing game. Thanks for coming along with us and let’s tip our hat to Reverend Forsyth who’s forethought spurred us to get here. You’re Nimrod and we continue to do God’s work.
November 17, 2022 It’s supposed to be fun: How to Avoid Hunting Season Burn Out By: Justin Hunold Simply put, hunting season can become a grind. Between early mornings and late nights the whole thing can be a bit of a blur. There are times hunting season can feel as much like work as any day at your job. Yet, we wait all year for the whole thing. Let’s look at a few ways to stay fresh, stay positive, and most of all have fun during hunting season. How to avoid burning out during a long hunting season. Scheduling for success– During the beginning of hunting season I try to creep my alarm to go off fifteen minutes earlier every week. By the time the clocks switch over in November I am already accustomed to getting up early and being ready to move. This might seem extreme but I tend to be an early riser anyway. Generally I am getting up around 6:00 am the whole year so, if I start in august and wake up 15 minutes earlier every week I am pretty well adjusted when 4:00 am becomes the norm. Waking up earlier has a welcomed side effect as well, I can get more things accomplished prior to the hunting season, when I tend to let things go a bit. Fuel the Machine- I love coffee, I love gas station coffee, gourmet coffee, dripped coffee, french press coffee, pour over and even keurig. I need it. It helps my comfort level and staves off the dreaded headache. I also try to eat healthy for most of the year. I like simple, mostly whole foods, with a large dose of game meats. Dairy is my “mostly” healthy guilty pleasure if I actually have one. During the season I make sure I have a plan for coffee before I go to bed. This is paramount, I carry Black Rifle Coffee Company instant coffee in my bag, just in case. If I am on a trip I make sure there is a good way to have a decent cup of coffee before I leave for the morning. A few different travel mugs go with me as well, if I don’t finish the java or need to bring it I’m good to go. This is also the time of year I let myself have more treats because I know with the lack of sleep, the hard hunting, and the colder temps I will likely burn off all of those extra calories. I love PBJ’s, fruit snacks, granola bars, jerky and left over Halloween candy. A little sugar and carb burst is always welcome while I’m out working birds or sitting on stand. For after the hunt I enjoy a good beer too. Everyone has their own view on what suits them for an evening, for me it’s a good IPA or Lager. I try to limit my intake of booze most nights, but if I am with good friends and family I will generally give myself one night to cut loose. There are plenty of great camp stories that come from those nights. I make sure I have some vitamin I (ibuprofen) and plenty of water at the ready so I can be good to go when that early morning comes around. Tech Savvy– Let’s face it we all love our phones, so I keep spare chords and battery packs with me. I like to have the ability to communicate and map while I’m in the field. I also love having the ability to capture great photos and video. As a content producer taking the time to put the camera on my phone to use is important and necessary but I also just love having the memories for me and my folks. I sent a video to a friend the other day and he couldn’t have cared less about the deer but he was very interested in the terrain I was hunting in. As a very involved father I love having the ability to Facetime my three year old son. So, I make sure I carve out some time to make those calls in the evening or at lunch time. It’s important to him and me. Family Matters– Remember that Fall and Winter both have a bunch of family oriented holidays. From time to time you might miss part of a holiday for some reason, I try personally to work my hunting in on all the days that aren’t holidays. I know it can be a tradition for some, and I am on board for those folks, but I refuse to miss a Halloween costume or a holiday meal because I am in the field. I have hunted on holidays but normally it’s close to home and with a family member. Being present and available for those special days is what life is about. Those extra couple days in the woods or water might not make a real difference in your season but they will make a difference to your family. Prioritize Do the Work– If you have a job that allows you to pick up some extra overtime or shifts before the season, that’s a great way to relieve some of the financial burden hunting can put on. I have a career that isn’t structured that way but I often cover for my co-workers throughout the year with the understanding that come fall they’ll return the favor. If you are more than pulling your weight the entire year it is easy to take some well earned time to yourself to do what you enjoy. Spread the Love– Every year I start to hate the sight of my tree stand at some point. That’s when I take to the backwaters to chase waterfowl, underbrush for small game and the fields for upland birds. I love hunting in general, but I also love the variety of ways I can take to the field. Any change of pace will offset the incoming feeling of burn out. These are some tricks I personally use to keep my head on straight. I love hunting and I love spending time outside, the second it starts to feel like work I employ some of these tactics to make sure I am keeping the JOY in the enJOY. Remember this stuff is supposed to be fun, and we work all year to get here. Now you do you and enjoy your time afield in whatever way suits you.
November 11, 2022 5 Things You Didn’t Know You Needed on Your Next Hunting Trip By : Justin Hunold I’m in the middle of an out of state hunting trip with some family and friends. And even though this is a deer camp and not a duck camp I can tell you what, the list Jesse put together on our Youtube Channel @retayusa came in handy when I was packing to come here. Let’s take a look at five items you should be packing to bring to a hunting camp, no matter what you’re chasing. Dry Bag– Jesse says he likes to keep his extra clothes in a dry bag to get into after he’s soaked from a morning chasing birds, and I couldn’t agree more. Yet, I use a kayak and other watercraft to access whitetails no one else seems to get to. And when I do that I use a drybag to put my tree saddle or safety harness and day pack in. I don’t like wet gear, and when hunting around water there is no dry. It’s all varying degrees of wet, so a dry bag helps you keep your stuff ready to go so you can sit in comfort. Pain Reliever– Advil, Tylenol, Aleve or my personal go to Excedrin. Really, we are talking about fighting off headaches and body aches from hunting hard and maybe hanging out harder. For general pain relief I’ll go with an NSAID but for the headache from celebrating a successful hunt a bit too much give me the big E. Plus it has a large dose of Caffeine so there’s that too. Ear Plugs– Guns are loud, boats are loud, camo is loud but when it’s time for bed snoring is louder. As I am here in camp with my buddies I realized none of us are young and spry anymore. And a few of us have sleep apnea. Or snore when we are plugged up or even snore if we’ve had a couple brews with dinner. My ear plugs stay under my pillow and get put in the second I lay down. This is the one thing on this list I wouldn’t compromise on or give up. If I forgot them I’d go buy more. Battery Pack– Let’s face it we all use our phones a lot. Hopefully the hunt is action packed enough to keep you off of it. To be honest I’m writing the bulk of this on my phone while in a tree. A spare battery pack or charging bank can save your life. There might not be enough outlets in the camp, you might be in a tent, you might be writing a blog for the best shotgun company in the world, hell, you might even be using your phone for useful things, navigation , flashlight or communication. Any which way a spare battery pack is a life saver for those little computers we walk around attached to our hands. Bucket, Trash Bags, paper towels, Toilet paper and a Gallon of Water– Um, this isn’t exactly one thing but kind of a system. You can use the bucket to clean birds, fish, small game or the like. Paper towels and water help with those things too. But the real MVPs are the striker paper and garbage bags. Don’t litter. Pick your trash up. But after too much coffee and gas station cuisine you better believe you’ll have to talk to a man about a horse and a bucket with a trash bag can be a better option than a roadside John or a tree lean. Remember, these trips are supposed to be fun, and this list lines up with that. Most of the things on this list aren’t make or break but they are items to keep you comfortable and taken care of. We all know the “gear” gets all the headlines in the hunting media but I’m staring at a box of gear I haven’t used on this trip, I promise I’ve used everything on Jesse’s list.
November 4, 2022 Motion in the Ocean: Adding Movement in Your Decoys While Duck Hunting By: Justin Hunold Go to your local pond, river, lake, reservoir or even street puddle where you regularly see ducks. Lots of things will seem random, the vocalizations, the number of ducks, the mix of sexes, the age structure, the species of birds. One day you might walk out there and see nothing but some Suzy’s with their young ones and other days you might spot a group of drakes with a random spoony in there. They might be chuckling away and hailing other ducks in the air one minute, to being dead silent the next second. There is one thing I can promise that will be the same about all of these scenarios. There will be movement. The what, where, why, and how model lines up with adding motion to your set up. So let’s take a look at a few of the options for each of these principles and help you get more birds in the freezer over the next few months. What are the best ways to add motion into your decoy spreads? This is everyone’s favorite category, gear. These are just some of the options to add into your bag of tricks. This will focus on a few simple options that can be managed by one to three hunters over a modest one to two dozen decoys that will be set up and taken down each hunt. We will also be looking at options that can fit in the decoy bag and be easily hiked, canoeing, kayaked or bought by a relatively small boat to the spot. There are big, intricate, and high production options that we won’t be talking about because these don’t fit this narrow description. Spinning wing Decoys: What are they? Spinning wing decoys are exactly as the name sounds, decoys that are either floating or suspended in the air by a long stake that have spinning wings. The wings can either be activated by wind or battery power. They can be any species of duck and can be either sex. Some popular brands are Avian X, Mojo, Lucky Duck and Higdon. These aren’t the only options but just a few of the more popular ones. Where to use them? Most folks will say that spinning wing decoys are great to use over dry fields. When we are talking about picked corn or other such food sources spinning wings are a must have. They are also great for hunting Diver Ducks, where motion is the main attractor. The other place they are commonly used is to compliment a standard spread in the whole or pocket that you want the ducks landing into. Why use them? You should think of spinners as attractors not closers. They grab attention, like some sort of car ad. Hey come look at this new truck. That got you in the door, then they got you with someone to actually sell you the truck or “Close” you. Same principle applies here. Spinners get the birds attention and oftentimes can get them to swing towards you. They are not the finishing touch though. How to use them? I personally like a floating spinner on a remote. This allows me to control what looks like a duck stretching its wings, as opposed to a duck just flapping away suspended in the air. This is a decoy I use near the X but often adjust depending on the reaction of the ducks. The same idea applies to suspended spinners, hanging there in the air. They are big time attractors. If budget allows I like remote models so I can decide when to kill the motion. This is generally done when the ducks seem to commit to the spread. Spinners cover mistakes and I think that it’s a great investment for newer hunters. Swimming, Splashing, Feeding, Quivering Decoys: What are they? Yes, we turned this into one category. Essentially, we are looking at any single decoy that adds motion in a non wing spinning way. They can swim, spit, sputter, pulse, quiver or splash and they do this by a battery actuated operation. Sometimes this is done by a spinning magnet, or a water pump or even a propeller of some sort. They add a natural motion of a single duck swimming, stretching, feeding, dabbling or any other imitation. Popular types are active swimmers, quivering single decoys , or duck butts that have action. Where to use them? In my opinion there is no wrong time to use these decoys when on the water. You cannot use them on dry land so, if that’s your game don’t bother buying any. I find even a couple of quivering duck butts can add a ton of reality to my spread. Smaller early season ducks like Teal and Woodies really key in on these. I cannot tell you how many woodies I’ve taken using a simple gray quiver magnet…it’s a pile though. Why use them? Simple to carry, simple to set up, and pretty natural movement, this style of decoy is the easiest way to add realistic motion into your spread. A lot of the time they can be a replacement not an addition to some of your other decoys making them great on space saving and set up times. How to use them ? I like to use these often, basically in every spread. Place them in the middle of a cluster of your other decoys to add motion to all. It’s a simple game for every dozen or so decoys. I like one of them to be this style, more if I can afford it. How often do you see a bunch of ducks completely still on the water? Never is the answer, which is why these are so great. The Jerk Rig: What is it? Simply put a Jerk Rig is a decoy(s) anchored on one end, with a piece of elastic material tied directly to that anchor, then a line from that elastic material to the decoy, then a line from the decoy to the hunter. Jerk the line and the decoy will swim and move naturally wrong under tension of the elastic material. There are probably hundreds of ways to make a Jerk Rig. Look it up on the internet, you can use weight, stakes, or a premade kit. In my opinion this is the most cost effective way to add motion to your spread and the Granddaddy of them all, the OG motion set up. Where to use them? My first instinct is to say everywhere there is water and ducks. This application is great in any spread and a lot of folks won’t hunt without them. Some folks will even choose a jerk rig over calling. They tend to be used in shallower water, and in some places with really deep water would be almost impossible(Think Diver Ducks here). If you’re hunting puddle ducks you can’t go wrong with having a jerk rig. Why use them? This is fairly self explanatory. Jerk Rigs are one of the easiest, fastest, cheapest, most practical way to add motion to your spread. You can likely make a jerk rig from stuff you have in your garage. How to use them? I one time had an old timer tell me” Start jerking as soon as you set it out and stop when you pick it up.” and that’s sound advice. Yet, I think just like the other decoys in this article you should probably start the action upon visual acquisition of the ducks and stop when they seem like they are committed to the spread and ready to be finished. There isn’t really a wrong way to use them or a bad place to put them in your spread…..Just use one. So, now you know some easy, fairly inexpensive and deadly options that any duck hunter can add into their arsenal. These are small scale, easily portable and highly effective decoys and tactics to use them in. I will say this, ducks might love motion in the decoys but they hate it in the blind. Keep you and your companions still, and covered. Doesn’t matter if they are two legged or four. If you guys are moving and easy to be seen, no decoy in the world will make those ducks finish. In the end there is no magic bullet and hunting is hunting. Do your job and put in the effort and sometimes you’ll be rewarded for that with duck, but all the time you’ll be rewarded by just being out there.
October 28, 2022 Initial Impressions: How to Keep Your Gun Operating by Setting Yourself Up for Success By: Justin Hunold Imagine you’re there on a premier hunt in the hallowed timber of Arkansas or maybe a two mile paddle back to a slough on public waters that have a horsepower restriction, or even taking a friend or family member out for their first goose hunt over 5 dozen decoys placed with care in a cut corn field. All that money, time, effort and most importantly experiences relying on your gear. And arguably the most important piece of actual gear you have is your gun. If it doesn’t go bang you can’t do the damn thang. Let’s start off by get the obvious out of the way, we firmly believe we offer the best waterfowl gun on the planet here at Retay USA. This article will be centered around to keep our guns delivering performance boldly redefined. This isn’t a sales pitch. This is about how to help keep your gun running when it’s needed most. And although these procedures will concentrate on Retay USA shotguns, the practices are basically universal. Number one, read your owner’s manual. I know “Men don’t read instructions” and that’s great in theory. I mean if you really want to skip this and you wanna go straight to youtube for instructions at least use our official videos. But take the time you’d get lost on Instatokbook and read your owner’s manual cover to cover. You will be able to troubleshoot almost all in the field issues you will run into if you understand your individual gun and not just guns in general. Since you cracked the box to get out the instructions you will now be looking at your new GPS, Gordion or Masai Mara you will see some residual grease or oil on the gun. You’re going to see some of the other stuff that comes with your gun like choke tubes, shims, the optics base, lubricant and even sling swivels. The next step is getting that gun out and getting any residual stuff off that gun. So, the lubricant and a nice gun cloth will help do this and for most folks this will be the end of the initial clean up process. I personally like to bust that manual out, and break the gun down to as many pieces as I feel comfortable putting back together correctly. You don’t want the first time you take the bolt assembly apart to be in that flooded timber we mentioned above. You know over eighteen inches of water, in the dark, with ducks pouring into the x. I personally prefer to strip all residual oils, dust and crud off of the entire gun. I use G96 Crud Buster Aerosol for this process. It strips all the stuff off of the gun surfaces and you can use the straw to get into the nooks and crannies of the bolt assembly. I prefer to strip my bolt down and clean each piece, but some folks won’t want to do this. Once I spray everything off and wipe it down with a gun cloth I let it air dry for a bit. If you’re using a CLP style product you can just reassemble from here. After air drying, I reassemble the gun. I follow the owners manual and check proper function as I go. I will manually operate the bolt, bolt face, trigger assembly and safety. “Thanks to its extreme simplicity and excellent materials, the Retay Automatic Shotgun requires no special maintenance.” This comes directly out of the maintenance section of the Retay USA Owner’s Manual. Basically what it’s saying is oil what seems like it needs oiled. Your bolt assembly, lightly, trigger assembly lightly and if you’re feeling really really froggy maybe the recoil spring assembly. On a GPS look at the action bars. I like a general lubricant like the one included with your gun for most times and it should be great in most conditions. When I hit the colder months I like to find a lube that is built for colder temps and not freezing up. I again turn to G96 but the Complete Gun Treatment. I like it because it performs the operations of cleaning, lubricating and protecting. It maintains viscosity down to -50. Meaning I can run this when I am hunting the Great Lakes or the Finger Lakes during the coldest months with no issues. For most conditions the High Tech Gun Oil that comes with your Retay will be fine. This will all take place before my gun ever sees the field. Or in a post/preseason general maintenance. There are a lot more in the field and post season and volume shooting maintenance tips to follow this. This is the best way I have found to set myself up for success when it comes to running and gunning with my shotguns. It is the set up. I worked at a gun counter for about ten years, all of them at very high volume firearm retailers. I can say that anecdotally when a customer came in with a new gun that was malfunctioning, nine times out of ten it was because they skipped this step. When you go on a long road trip and kinda sit in the car, driving, putting miles on the road, maybe spilling coffee, crumbs and just kinda sitting in your own crud you likely are looking forward to a good shower when you get home. Treat your new gun the same way and it’ll be a lot happier when it wakes up for use. Set yourself up for success. Retay USA shotguns are the best waterfowl guns on the planet. So, do yourself a favor and treat them like it, even though they will work even if you don’t.
October 21, 2022 Nerd Alert: What Gear Guys Bring to the Woods By: Justin Hunold I will fully admit that I am a gear nut. If it’s a gadget that isn’t needed but looks cool and serves a very particular purpose I probably own it. What’s funny when you do a gear dump of some very experienced outdoors folks the similarities become apparent. Some stuff is techy and a cool piece of kit and some not glamorous at all but makes the cut because it just works. What items do you need to go camping? Let’s take a look at some of these items. When I started with the idea for this article I texted some friends and asked them what they always bring camping. Some lists were very basic and some were very gadget heavy but they all came from a place of experience. Anyone I reached out to spends at least two to three weeks camping a year. I cherry picked the items with general tent life in mind. You can have these items whether car camping at a campsite, picking your way through a boulder field in the Brooks Range, taking your favorite pack animal into the backcountry or through hiking the Appalachian Trail. There may be some overkill items but to me they are worth the weight. Let’s start simple, ziplock bags. Yes, you read that right. Gallon size ziploc bags can help you ration food, keep injuries dry in a pinch, keep funky clothes isolated, contain anything you might forage from nature, the list goes on. These buggers are very useful. Along the same lines I would venture to say fill one of them with some zip ties, batteries and leukotape(blows the door off duct tape). This is all simple and very useful stuff. A note on the batteries, try and get gadgets that all take the same batteries when possible. On the top of the list for everyone was a knife, some of us preferred a folding pocket knife and others a fixed blade, the Kershaw Ken Onion series knives were a popular choice. I personally carry a Ontario Knife Company RAT2, it has a liner lock and the clip can be moved to carry how the owner prefers rather than being fixed from the factory. This is a nice feature for a lefty. I also carry a Morakniv which is a vaunted all purpose, full tang, impact resin handled knife from Sweden. Morakniv are basically indestructible and can be made exceedingly sharp. I will also be found with some sort of multitool more often than not when camping, when I’m in the back country I will replace my folder with a multitool like a Leatherman Wingman. So, one of the problems people have when camping is lack of good sleep. Tylenol PM will help that and I keep it in my first aid kit, but so will a good inflatable pillow like any of the offerings from Klymit or even the under $20 jobbers on Amazon. Skip the stuff sack full of clothes or those tiny crushable pillows, spend a couple bucks and get an inflatable pillow. Food is essential, so it is a good way to cook it. For basic cooking there are three routes I will send you down. Car camping calls for a Coleman Camp Stove like their Duel Fuel stoves. The option I prefer for car camping or pack animals is a Camp Chef Explorer two burner stove. I like the optional griddle top because breakfast is my favorite meal and that option facilitates pancakes. Next would be a Jetboil style stove, these are self contained canister fueled cookpots. They are great if you are trying to find space in your pack or if you are meticulous about cleaning or using it. I can’t seem to keep my Ramen out of the coffee so I don’t use these. I run a MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and have since it was a Pocket Rocket 1. You will need a pot or mess kit to use these but they are exceedingly light and reliable. Coffee goes with camping, no analogy needed. Some dudes will go with an enamel percolator, like in the western movies of yesteryear. Can I be honest with you? Percolator coffee isn’t good, it looks cool on the fire but yuck! I bring a Lexan French Press. My buddy runs instant coffee, the Starbuck Via isn’t bad but I prefer the Black Rifle Coffee Company Instant coffee. Leave that Folgers instant at the supermarket, I’m a coffee snob not a coffee drinker. A more and more common situation in the field is keeping your electronics charged and ready to go. Between general phone use, mapping, taking pictures and taking videos of your adventures getting that phone back to 100% is important to most folks. We have had some suggestions ranging from Goal Zero battery banks, charging from a JBL Charge or Flip to a basic power banks from Amazon. They all work. I prefer the basic banks from amazon. I can store a few of them in different places rather than having a big heavy unit with zero redundancy. Plus you can get two of these with 10000 MHz each for about $25. This is plenty for quick pick me ups during a day in the field. This list is not complete or comprehensive. It’s a simple “Hey don’t forget this stuff ” list. Most of the things on this list I keep in my vehicle in some form or fashion at all times. With Good sleep, a good blade and good coffee I can make a go of anything else that Mother Nature throws at me, isn’t that the fun?!
October 14, 2022 Wool something Your Grandpa was Right About : Why You Should Be Wearing Wool for Hunting Season By Justin Hunold I was in a white leather seat slipping and sliding down a dirt road, my wool pants couldn’t grab traction in that Lincoln Town Car. My grandfather, two weeks fresh off being splayed open and having a widow maker aneurysm removed from his abdomen, had decided that the opening day of New York deer season was no time to take “bed rest” as a serious notion from the doctors that performed the surgery. I was young, my dad had to work but sent me as the legal guardian of my grandfather and told me not to let him touch a deer. We were both stuffed into wool head to toe, wool and cigarette smoke because my grandfather practiced strict scent control. This was my first introduction into wool hunting clothing. It wouldn’t be my last sit in those woods or those pants, but as the years went on my ideas about deer hunting terrain features changed and so did my ideas of what wool pieces worked. This is a quick run through that journey to this point. The next impression about wool left on my buckskin story blanket of hunting came just a few short years later after reading all about the Benoits. I read the original How To Bag The Biggest Buck of Your Life and decided I would become a deer tracker. Larry Benoit expounded on the benefits of wool in that book. He wrote of its warmth, stealth and ability to insulate when wet. All of these are true, so with that in mind I bought my first set of brand new dedicated hunting clothes. Decked in my Columbia Gallatin Wool Jacket and Pants and a set of Lacrosse boots I tracked a 3 pt (in the eastern sense, spike and crotch) in the snow and shot him at 15 yards with a borrowed .308 Winchester. It happened so close and so fast I remember essentially only using the front sight to place the shot. I was sold, wool was it for me. My bowhunting career started in earnest the following year, and although I loved how quiet my wool set was, the wind seemingly cut through it like a Morakaniv knife through my finger (ouch!). So, I decided wool wasn’t where it was at and bought synthetics for years. I have owned every single synthetic fabric I can think of in every layer for which they would be practical. They have their place, and I now use them in conjunction with wool. Author wearing both a First Lite Brimmed Beanie and Cabela’s Merino Wool Jacket Many hundreds of hunts later and many articles of hunting clothing gone by I have come full circle. I currently run all wool as next to skin layers. I wear wool socks daily not just during hunting season and there is still nothing as quiet or warm when wet. My base layers can be stretched to multiple days of use because wool naturally holds no odors. I use the Black Ovis NWT merino wool base layers. They are awesome. I have three sets and rotate them throughout hunting. They have held up well and come in different colors and weights. I tend to lean heavily on the 250 weight. I also use Obsidian Pants and a First Lite Brimmed Beanie. I mix in fleece and wind blocking layers and some insulating layers with those pieces but wool makes up the majority of my system. Wool is a solid choice for waterfowl as well. With the ability to insulate even when wet, wool beats synthetic in a lot of ways. You can often find me in a wool waterfowl sweater during those cold mornings hunting divers on big water. Bottom line is wool keeps you warm, even when nature is giving her best effort to make sure you’re not. If you go far and hard, you work up a sweat even if you’re trying not to. Wool will help you keep that funk down and stay warm even after you saturate it. It is all natural and the better the Merino the more comfortable you’ll be. Merino is as comfortable as your favorite cotton underwear but it won’t get you killed. I hate when grown men say the word “comfy” unless they are talking to a child but good merino wool can be downright comfy. You also don’t have to spend a ton of money on wool. I have bought some of my all time favorite pieces at Military Surplus stores and second hand. Remember a green wool shirt is a green wool shirt no matter whose tag is on it. Those military, green, wool, fingerless gloves are the bees knees for a lot of chilly hunting situations. You can still use your electronics, gun or calls with your fingers exposed but your hands generally warm. I think if people take from my mistakes and go with these pieces early on they can save themselves a lot of money, aggravation and be more comfortable in the woods. We are out there to have fun. Speaking of funk grandpa’s scent control regime wasn’t far off. Carry milkweed, hunt terrain and learn to play the wind…smoking is not encouraged.
October 7, 2022 Don’t Be That Guy: Why the Anti Hunting Movement is Winning By: Justin Hunold A bit ago there we did a Retay Roundtable called “Don’t Be That Guy” and it concentrated on not being an aggressive asshole, or trophy shaming other hunters. But apparently we need to cover this again. This question was posted in a Whitetail hunting group, and spelling aside it is a simple question. Let me say that about twenty nine of those fifty eight comments were either shaming the original post for needing water on stand, saying he’s not asking the right questions, not prioritizing the right thing or plain old being mean. This is a simple question. What is with us? Why? You know what I hate? The sound of a cheap plastic single use bottle crumpling when I move, the fact that it’s one more thing in a landfill when I’m done with it, the lack of ability to put it in the tree with me if I don’t have it in a pouch and I’m not always in cargo pants, that I may be hunting in 75 plus degrees and I want more than twelve ounces of water and other hunters being jerks to a simple question. Context matters folks. Maybe the original poster is the good lords gift to hunting, but maybe the sound of a cheap bottle cost him a deer, maybe he’s diabetic or has another medical condition that would make staying well hydrated paramount, maybe he’s sitting all day, maybe he is very particular with his gear, maybe he doesn’t care about shooting stuff and he just enjoys being out there, maybe Adam Sandler is his idol and he loves high quality H2O? None of these are wrong. He asked a simple question and a lot of people decided to respond with vitriol that we should be leveling on those folks that stand against us not with us. There are plenty of people against hunting and the Second Amendment. Why oh why are you crapping on another hunter for an innocuous ask? This isn’t an ethics question. He’s not asking about the “Age” of an animal. He’s not discussing the flexibility of bag and possession limits (to which there is none). He didn’t say he was out shooting every Suzie he saw, or the timing of shooting mature does during the season. He was asking specifically what do you guys do with the vessel of water you brought in while hunting. There is nothing to bash here. Please for the love of Teddy Roosevelt STOP BEING THAT GUY. You wanna be “That Guy” why don’t you go do that in an Anti Second Amendment Forum or Group. Or jump over to an Anti Hunting group and drop some truth bombs in the comments over there. Even better yet, take that keyboard energy and engage with someone who might be on the fence about hunting or the Second Amendment or even the eating of game meat and try to level some relevant points and reasons why these things are important. Be a force for good, if you can handle being non condescending while doing it? If you understand that I was being condescending in that question you can probably form a cohesive argument to help us out rather than a shitty comment to a fellow hunter. What I am asking isn’t a stretch here. And don’t get me wrong, I bust balls with the best of them, with my friends and family. I’m not trying to be a keyboard warrior. I try to limit what I will say online to what I would say to someone’s face. I assure you if I heard you crapping on another hunter for asking a water bottle, backpack, waders, boots, knife or any other piece of gear that can make their day in the field better question I would call you out for being a jerk. If this is a fairly new hunter asking this question guess what, he may now be a fairly non hunter. Probably not, but how ready do you think he is to go to a Ducks Unlimited Banquet or a NWTF event to become an active member of the hunting community in that way? We get enough nonsense from the non-hunting community, we certainly don’t need more from people who are supposed to be “Blood Brothers”. We often hear people say the thing they enjoy the most about hunting is the comradery, we sure pick a funny way of showing it. This stuff is constant. You are entitled to your opinion. But ask yourself are you just the hunting version of a Woke Social Justice Warrior when you’re screaming online about someone not doing it your way. Gear, Species, Sex, Age, Method of Take. All of it is none of your business if it’s legal and it makes the person happy. Now debating these things is encouraged on my part, so don’t be that guy and hijack someone else’s post, vibe and flow to make it known that you’re virtue signaling like a college kid feeling who just read their intro to philosophy assigned reading. By engaging in this behavior, you my friend are being a snowflake, of the hunting kind. Ask a real question. Does this season structure continue to make sense in our current population dynamics? Are the methods of take lining up with the seasons properly? What is the maximum amount of tech allowed? Should I be concerned about the fact that the early season Canada limit is fifteen birds when a week later it’s one? What’s the rationale behind the decision making process on these things and can I help? Post that. Ask that. I know your confidence is hurting. I know you haven’t done the “Hard Work” . That’s obvious. Maybe you’re having a hard day and you feel that knocking someone else down is a sure way to build yourself up. I know you know the very best way to do everything which is why you’re the on high ruler of all things hunting. But I promise we plebes are just trying to learn from you, the second coming of Jim Bridger. Before you’re about to crap on another hunter asking a question that has nothing to do with you or posting a picture of their legal harvest, or just enjoying nature in the way that makes them happy please, go look in the mirror and learn how to validate yourself. Or just remember that the internet is not the digital version of Austin Powers defrosting. You have an inner monologue. It doesn’t have to be written on Social Media. Now, See what I did there? I voiced my opinion without using your post. I didn’t steal your thunder. I didn’t try to personally put my spin on your thoughts. I was directly shitty to a population of hunters publicly and let it live on its own. Not because I think I am awesome, or my opinion is right, but because I know the way we treat other hunters is wrong. Don’t be that guy.
