September 16, 2022 Advanced Beginner: What are Some Semi Advanced Needs and Techniques in Duck Hunting? By: Justin Hunold A bit ago we talked about What You Need to Start Duck Hunting. We took you from baseline non hunter to a minimally outfitted duck hunter, now we want to look beyond this. You may have bagged your first bird, a few different species of ducks and geese ,or even have a band hanging from your lanyard. With that, what do you need to “Step Up Your Game” when it comes to stacking ducks up? Let’s take a look at some gear and ideas that are just beyond the beginner phase. Decoys- So, you hunted over a minimal spread of a dozen hot buy mallards. You’ve had some ducks light into them and you were thinking about that image as you plucked them later, but how many ignored the spread? We all like to say you can kill ducks without decoys, lot’s of ducks die over a dozen decoys, and things like that. There are times when bigger truly is better and you would have killed those same birds over three dozen decoys, and maybe gotten a crack at the ones that zoomed past you, not given your lonely dozen a second look. A good secondary investment in the realm of decoys is a second and even third dozen. I prefer to set up around two dozen given the time, space and my own capacity. Having thirty plus decoys will happen at some point, it’s not a bad place to start “Buying In”. Spinning wing decoys are very commonplace at this point, but there was a time when they were so deadly that game agencies debated banning them. I would make an argument that as opposed to that third dozen decoys this might be a better investment for your hunting funds. Lot’s of ducks still come in cupped to land next to that spinner every year and adding a bit of motion to the spread might be a better tactic visually than just adding more still decoys. I also would argue to get a Hen Spinner. It can be used anywhere, at any time of year. Moreover some companies make smaller, less expensive versions of their flagship model decoys. Normally you can have two of the smaller versions for the price of one of the big dogs. That’s a smart buy. Speaking of motion, let’s talk about a jerk rig. Simply put, a jerk rig is a decoy or decoys attached to a string that is anchored on one end, has some elasticity, and is pulled on by the hunter at the other end. There are factory models, and a bunch of ways to DIY this rig, at the end of the day jerk rigs probably fool more birds than spinners and in some situations calling. This is a great way to add motion to the ocean and keep pennies in the piggy bank. Calls- Hopefully at this point you’ve been practicing and have graduated past a drake whistle, you’re confident that you sound reasonably like a duck. Now, before you go and buy a competition grade call, or even a high grade, high rent acrylic call, maybe look into a few different models of poly and wood calls first. With different call styles come different sounds, nasally, raspy, high pitched, low, whiny and everyone has their own flavor they like. Are you sure the one you bought is the best call for you to marry? I would advise doing some dating first. You can do that by buying a few different styles of calls in the less expensive materials. I would look at getting both a reasonable double reed and single reed call. You will likely find the double easier to blow with a bit sweeter a sound. The single has some legs and can carry a long distance. You might decide to use one or the other exclusively. There are a lot of folks who love the ducky sound of a double and hunt tight, never needing the volume of a single reed. Then there are people who hunt bigger water and want to reach out and touch those birds, and make a compromise to call softer when the birds get in close, a single might be their only call. I advise having both and using the right tool for the job. Once you find a style of each you may decide to purchase the high rent model in both, or neither. Calls do not have to be expensive to work. Experiment a bit with that same money and you will likely find a few you like rather than one you thought you might like. Comfort- While in your first few hunts you probably didn’t realize that there are only a few conditions a hunter lives in you’ve figured it out by now. You’re either boiling hot or freezing cold and apparently always wet. Comfort is a huge factor in hunting. The longer you can tough out a situation the more chances you get. Here are a few things I use to help me not just tough out conditions but thrive in them. Merino Wool base layers, taken from old school hunters and modernized by the western big game crew these base layers are now an across the board staple. As soft as cotton, merino wool retains its ability to insulate when wet. Plus wool repels stink, which can be a blessing when stuffed in under waders. I use wool when waterfowl hunting, big game hunting and general everyday outdoor use like camping and tailgating. A Battery Powered Heated Vest is the perfect thing to take that mid morning chill off. I have been using one for a few years now and you won’t find me without it if it’s below 45 degrees. Secondarily, the batteries can be used to charge phones, cameras, flashlights and a pile of other electronics in the field. I don’t start out the day with mine turned on but after that chill sets in from the sweat I worked up putting decoys out I crank that vest up full blast. It’s a game changer. Calling in gloves sucks, shooting gloves also sucks, having wet soggy gloves sucks the worst. A good quality hand muff is the solution to all of those problems. I have gone to fingerless gloves and a muff for most outdoor adventures and this holds true for waterfowl hunting as well. These aren’t the ones you see an NFL skill player wearing, today’s muffs come rigged with Sherpa fleece inners, waterproof outers, hand warmer pockets and even loops for extra shotshells. This is a comfort item that you didn’t think about when first acquiring gear but as soon as you have one you’ll never hunt without it. I love mine and actually have multiples. Plus, they are great for throwing your phone and headlamp in for safekeeping and easy access during the hunting day. The Final Flight- Will any of these things change your luck, make you a better hunter or get you a limit of birds? Actually, Yeah. A hunter who is able to draw more birds because of some better visibility, motion and sound, who is then able to be present and attentive because they are warm and comfortable is more likely to put some birds on the stringer. You still have to do the work. You still have to be in the spot, constantly learning, scouting, showing up. You have to put the decoys out with care, hide yourself well and shoot straight, but add these items to that and guess what, you’ll probably be able to do all of those things to a bigger audience of ducks, and be ready and willing when the time comes to say “Drill Em” .
August 19, 2022 Limiting out on Small Water: How to Duck Hunt Secondary Creeks By: Justin Hunold When I started duck hunting I always had pictures of standing timber, flooded food fields and prairie potholes in my mind’s eye. The locations I ended up taking a lot of my ducks from looked nothing like these “dream” spots. I ended up shooting a majority of all of my waterfowl from a small, untapped and often duck choked feature, Secondary Creeks. Let’s look at how you can build a system for secondary creeks that can get you into ducks no one else is pursuing. Look at google maps of any big river. As you look at the layout of this river a few apparent areas will hit you in the face. You’ll see a good point, island, broken shoreline, or maybe a flat in the back of a cove. It hit you and everyone else in the face. Now , from that same view take a look and see if you can find some small creeks that spurt off the main river. These are secondary creeks and these are your mission. Scouting From my canoe I slipped under a small culvert bridge and into the creek that fed from the river to a gigantic swamp a few miles away. While I know the birds on the river get shot up and the swamp gets a lot of pressure the creek that runs between the two is tough to get into and takes some forethought. This quick detour during a smallmouth fishing trip showed me quickly where all the ducks would end up when the shooting starts. This creek was choked with ducks, geese, natural food and had cover up both sides in the form of trees. Best case scenario is you get to scout these areas by water or foot, worst case you escout them. What I like to look for is a simple pool or bend in the creek, outside bends will have fast water so for my money I prefer an inside bend with its slower current. If you can find a point or oxbow even better but remember we are working on a micro habitat so they won’t be hugely apparent. These areas will likely hold natural food for puddlers. If you have to go in completely blind, use these as a good bet for a set up. If you get to scout ahead of time, this is where I would start and expect to see ducks. Gear Paddling my canoe under the culvert before daylight I was careful not to make too much paddling noise. My headlamp shined off of the dozen decoys , spinner and shotgun case I had with me. If this spot held ducks like it had in the late summer I wouldn’t have to worry about a huge set up. This style of hunting is a game for a minimalist set up. These are small spots, the draw is the isolation, cover, food, and lack of pressure. Pack accordingly. A Canoe or Kayak are probably the best ways to access these small creeks. I like to carry a dozen high quality mallard decoys, although these can be tailored to your regions and species, one or two spinning wing decoys and maybe a quiver decoy of some sort. There will be natural movement imparted by the moving water, which is really awesome. I will carry a few Canada silhouettes from time to time depending on how the seasons crossover or overlap. I have put these to use even in this small area. This is a great scenario to try out a 20 gauge, with the generally tight shooting and decoying birds. I like a light gun with an fairly open choke. Small creeks mean close birds, and if you’re setting up in the right spot they will be lighting into your small spread. A 12 gauge will work by all means just keep in mind the shots will probably be right in your face. Choose your choke and your load accordingly. The basic waterfowl load out will work, blind bag, head lamp, clothing and waders. I really like carrying a marsh stool or dove stool. Normally building a brush blind is a pretty easy task in these locations. Their isolation leads to ample brush build up of all sorts Set Up Brushed into a small impromptu blind made of a few branches and some grass my watch let me know it was legal shooting, and not five minutes later I head the whistling wings bombing overhead and after one pass and a turn two Wood Ducks arched through the trees and tried to touch down. My gun went off and a beautiful Drake hit the water. This was the beginning but it would be repeated throughout this hunt with Mallards and Woodies both. Using natural barriers and cover is the way to go in these situations. I love making a nice easy blind by brushing in a deadfall if possible. Otherwise I will just tuck myself into whatever cover is available. From there I use a small scattered spread of decoys. I leave the J’s and U’s for the big water. I normally set the dekes out by hand but in smaller pairs or triples. I put the spinners on staked on the edge of the opposite bank. This simple spread has accounted for more puddle ducks than any other set up I have ever hunted them with. Small Water Big limits After stowing all of my gear I paddled out of the little stream just a few short hours later than I had entered, I was lighter on shells and heavier on Ducks. Having killed my one man limit that morning I chuckled as I loaded up within sight of a big river boat blind, knowing I hadn’t heard a shot from them all morning. For once I got it right and the slim and trim was where it was at. I have moved around the eastern seaboard, and when it comes to finding new waterfowl hunting this is my go to technique. You can walk into these spots a lot of the time, I always have a kayak or canoe, and when you don’t know anyone keeping it simple can make all the difference. These secondary creeks are my secret spot to kill limits of ducks when I feel like I don’t know what I am doing. Now it’s your secret too.
